A Food Lover’s Guide to Shantou

Xinghua Wuji Beef Hotpot (杏花吴记牛肉火锅)

For the people of Chaoshan, enjoying beef hotpot is not just a meal; it is the highest form of respect you can pay to beef. Your first stop after arriving in Shantou should be Xinghua Wuji, the city’s top-ranked beef hotpot restaurant. This spot is a legend, beloved by local connoisseurs and highly rated by visitors. Even on a weekday afternoon, the buzz of anticipation is palpable—a testament to its unwavering popularity.

The Philosophy: A Race Against Time

What sets Chaoshan beef hotpot apart is a relentless obsession with freshness. The cattle, typically three- to four-year-old bulls for optimal flavor and texture, are part of a lightning-fast supply chain. It is a strict rule that the beef must travel from butcher to table in under six hours. This prevents the buildup of lactic acid, preserving the meat’s natural sweetness and tender texture. At Xinghua Wuji, you can taste this dedication in every single bite.

This dedication extends to the butchering, an art form in itself. A single cow is masterfully divided into more than a dozen distinct cuts, but only the most premium third of the animal is deemed worthy of the hotpot. This process is done entirely by hand, as a machine could never replicate the precision required to slice against the grain of each unique muscle, ensuring the perfect thickness for a quick cook.

Your Guide to the Cuts: An Education in Flavor

The menu can be daunting with its array of specific cuts. Here’s your guide to ordering like a local and understanding the symphony of textures you’re about to experience.

The Crown Jewel: Snowflake (雪花, Xuěhuā)

Also known as “Bo Ren” (脖仁), this is the most prized cut, taken from the raised muscle on the cow’s neck. It boasts a stunning, snow-like marbling and is exceptionally rare, making up only 1% of the entire cow. It’s the pinnacle of beef hotpot indulgence.

Your 8-Second Ritual: Swish it in the broth for just eight seconds to achieve a texture that is both tender and subtly chewy.

The Texture King: Five-Flower Toe (五花趾, Wǔhuā Zhǐ)

This is the tendon meat from the hind leg, easily identified by its clear, beautiful muscle fibers. It offers a wonderfully springy and crisp bite that is completely different from the softer cuts. Its front-leg counterpart, “Three-Flower Toe,” is also delicious, but the hind leg version is considered superior for its more pronounced crunchy texture.

Your 15-Second Dip: This tougher cut needs a bit longer. Cook for fifteen seconds until the muscle contracts, yielding a delightfully resilient chew.

The Crowd-Pleaser: Sirloin (吊龙, Diàolóng)

This cut from the cow’s back is the equivalent of a Western sirloin or rib-eye. It’s a perfect balance of lean meat and a thin strip of flavorful fat, which melts away in the broth to create an exceptionally smooth and juicy bite. It’s a must-order for every table.

The Unexpected Delight: Brisket Fat (胸口朥, Xiōngkǒu Láo)

Don’t be fooled by its appearance. This is not greasy fat but a unique soft tissue from the cow’s chest. When you first drop the pale, white slices into the pot, they are soft. But the longer you cook them, the crispier and more fragrant they become, releasing a rich, buttery aroma. It’s a textural marvel that will surprise and delight you.

A 5-Minute Transformation: Be patient. Let it simmer for three to five minutes to witness its magical transformation into a crispy, flavorful morsel.

The Final Touch: Shacha Sauce

No beef hotpot experience is complete without the signature dipping sauce: Shacha sauce (沙茶酱). This complex, savory paste, made from a secret blend of dried shrimp, fish, sesame, peanuts, and spices, is the essential companion. Its salty, sweet, and umami notes elevate the natural flavor of the beef without overpowering it. A simple dip is all you need to unlock the perfect bite.

Chuangdi Beef Balls (创弟牛肉丸)

Let’s make one thing clear: not all beef balls deserve to be called Chaoshan beef balls. After you visit Chuangdi, you will understand why. This unassuming shop is a veritable temple to the art of the beef ball, one of Shantou’s most celebrated culinary landmarks and a “must-eat” destination for good reason. Its fame wasn’t built on marketing, but on generations of perfecting a single craft.

Interestingly, the beef ball’s journey to Chaoshan is a story of cultural fusion. Research suggests its origins lie with the Hakka people of Meizhou. When Shantou opened as a port in the 19th century, Hakka merchants brought their recipes with them. Local Chaoshan artisans, already masters of making fish balls, adapted and refined the technique, creating the legendary beef ball you can taste today.

The Art of the Pound: Crafting Perfection by Hand

The magic of Chuangdi’s beef balls lies in a physically demanding, time-honored process that machines simply cannot replicate. It begins with selecting the right cut—typically the less-premium but incredibly flavorful hind leg meat. Then, the real work starts.

Instead of grinding, the fresh beef is relentlessly pounded by hand with a pair of heavy iron rods, each weighing nearly two kilograms. For up to an hour, the rhythmic thudding transforms solid muscle into a fine, dense, and sticky paste. This methodical pounding completely breaks down the tough sinew and muscle fibers, releasing the natural proteins and creating the foundation for that signature springy, “Q” texture.

Finally, the meat paste is seasoned, squeezed by hand into perfect spheres, and briefly cooked in hot water to set its shape. The entire process is a testament to immense skill and physical effort.

A Tale of Two Balls: Your Tasting Guide

There is no paper menu at Chuangdi; the experience is wonderfully direct. You simply tell the owner what you desire. Your main choice is between two legendary spheres of perfection, both of which you must try.

The Classic Beef Ball (牛肉丸)

Prepare yourself for its surprising size—each ball is nearly as large as a golf ball, with a smooth, taut surface. They are handmade, firm, and incredibly elastic. The real experience begins when you take your first bite while it’s piping hot. You’ll be met with a satisfying, bouncy resistance, immediately followed by a gushing wave of savory, steaming meat juice that floods your mouth. The substantial texture and pure, intense beef flavor are nothing short of spectacular.

The Tendon Ball (牛筋丸)

While the classic ball is about purity, the tendon ball is about complexity. Finely chopped beef tendon is mixed into the meat paste, introducing a delightful chewiness and creating a more layered, three-dimensional texture. These balls are intentionally seasoned and crafted to be more porous. When you bite down, these tiny pockets release spurts of intensely fragrant, oily juice that dance on your tongue. Without exaggeration, this might just be the best tendon ball you will ever eat.

The Perfect Setting

The classic way to enjoy them is in a “Guo Tiao Soup” (粿条汤). The balls are served in a light yet deeply flavorful beef broth with silky rice noodles. The soup often includes slices of freshly blanched beef, cooked to a perfect, tender pink. A sprinkle of crisp celery and fried garlic completes this masterpiece of a bowl. It’s so soul-satisfyingly delicious, you might find yourself doing exactly what the original author did: immediately ordering a second round.

Guiyuan White Congee (桂园白粥) — The “Da Leng” Experience

You might ask yourself, “How delicious can plain white congee possibly be?” In Shantou, you’ll find the stunning answer to that question late at night. Your most quintessential Chaoshan supper experience is “Da Leng” (打冷), a vibrant, bustling affair where a dazzling array of cold and hot dishes are served alongside bowls of steaming white congee, which locals affectionately call “moi” (糜).

What is “Da Leng”?

“Da Leng” refers to the style of Teochew eatery, a culinary theater where dozens of pre-cooked dishes are displayed in a brightly lit, open-air stall. Unlike high-end banquet cuisine, this is grassroots food at its finest—honest, flavorful, and deeply satisfying. Guiyuan White Congee stands as one of the city’s most beloved institutions for this late-night feast.

The Ordering Ritual

Prepare to be mesmerized. The sheer variety at Guiyuan is a feast for the eyes and a veritable nightmare for the indecisive. There is no paper menu; the experience is entirely visual. You simply walk up to the stall, point at whatever tempts you—from glistening braised meats to colorful marinated seafood—and the staff will plate it for you. A word of warning: self-control is essential, as the temptation to order one of everything is immense. For those feeling overwhelmed, look for set menus on local review apps to guide your choices.

The Heart of the Meal: Chaoshan White Congee

While the side dishes dazzle, never forget that the white congee is the true star. Chaoshan “moi” is unique. It’s cooked with high-quality pearl rice from Northeast China, but the process is key. The rice is cooked in boiling water and then allowed to continue softening in the residual heat, resulting in a consistency that’s neither a fully broken-down porridge nor a simple rice-in-soup. The grains remain distinct yet tender, creating the perfect neutral, comforting canvas for the intensely flavorful dishes to come.

Your Must-Try Companions: A Guide to the Dishes

This is where the adventure begins. Each dish is designed to be a powerful counterpoint to the subtlety of the congee.

The Addictive ‘Poison’: Raw Marinated Seafood (生腌)

This is a non-negotiable part of the “Da Leng” experience. Locals call it “Chaoshan poison” because once you try it, you’ll be hopelessly addicted. Live shrimp (or mantis shrimp/oysters) are marinated for hours in a potent mixture of sea salt, rice vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, and chilies. The process “cooks” the seafood, transforming its texture into something exquisitely gelatinous, translucent, and silky, with a springy bite. The flavor is a sublime fusion of the seafood’s natural sweetness and the savory, aromatic marinade.

⚠️ A Note on Sensitive Stomachs: While “Teochew Poison” is irresistibly delicious, raw seafood can be intense for travelers. If you are unsure about what to avoid, check out our Practical Safety Guide and list of China Travel Taboos.

The Savory Classics: Braised Platter & Tiny Clams

A “Da Leng” spread is incomplete without braised items (卤味). Opt for a platter of braised pork intestines and pork belly. Though they look rich, they are slow-cooked to tender perfection and simply melt in your mouth. Alongside this, get a plate of tiny stir-fried clams (红肉米). These minuscule morsels pack an incredible umami punch, providing the perfect salty, savory scoop to eat with your congee.

Round out your meal with other classics like the braised tofu skin and dried tofu (焖豆干腐皮), which soak up the savory sauce, and a plate of stir-fried greens cooked with “wok hei” to cut through the richness. Every dish tells a story, and together, they create an unforgettable symphony of flavors.

Shikou Restaurant Claypot Congee (适口餐厅砂锅粥)

On a cool Shantou evening, as the city lights begin to twinkle, you’ll find locals seeking a unique kind of comfort. It’s a warmth that radiates from a single, bubbling pot. In winter, nothing soothes the soul quite like a traditional Chaoshan claypot congee. This is not the plain congee of the late-night stalls; this is “xiang moi” (香糜) or “fragrant congee,” a rich, complex, and deeply savory meal cooked to order. And there is no better place to experience it than Shikou Restaurant, a local institution so beloved it has been a “must-eat” award winner for four consecutive years—a testament to its unwavering quality.

The Philosophy of Freshness: From Water to Pot

The first thing you’ll notice at Shikou is the vibrant display of live seafood. The fundamental principle of a sublime claypot congee is non-negotiable: absolute, uncompromising freshness. The variety is astounding, a testament to the bounty of the nearby coast. You’ll see tanks teeming with fresh shrimp (鲜虾), formidable crabs (螃蟹), slippery eels (鳝鱼), and plump scallops (扇贝). This is the promise of “xian sha xian zuo” (现杀现做)—every key ingredient is prepared just moments before it enters your pot.

The “Sheng Gun” (生滚) Method: A Masterclass in Texture

What truly elevates this dish is the masterful “sheng gun” or “fresh-rolling” cooking technique. This is where skill and patience converge. Unlike other styles that use pre-cooked porridge, the process here begins with raw rice grains in a rustic claypot over a fierce flame. This is a crucial difference, as it allows the rice to absorb flavor from the very beginning.

The chef stirs the pot constantly, a rhythmic motion that prevents sticking and coaxes the starches out of the rice, creating a creamy broth while ensuring each grain remains distinct and elastic. It’s a delicate balance. Once the congee is half-cooked, robust ingredients like crab and seasonings are added, their essence slowly seeping into the broth and rice. Finally, in the last moments, delicate items like fresh shrimp are dropped in, cooking to a perfect, tender-crispness in the residual heat. This preserves their natural sweetness and prevents them from becoming tough—a mark of a true master.

The Main Event: A Pot of Comfort

While the menu offers a vast array of combinations, the classic, can’t-miss choice is the Crab and Shrimp Congee (螃蟹鲜虾粥). When it arrives at your table, still bubbling furiously, the aroma is intoxicating. The congee is thick, creamy, and infused with the profound umami of the ocean. Sweet, delicate crab meat falls apart into the porridge, while the plump shrimp provide a satisfying textural pop.

A helpful tip: The pots are labeled as single-serving, but they are generously portioned and perfectly satisfying for two adults to share, especially when ordered with side dishes.

Essential Companions: The Unmissable Side Dishes

A meal at Shikou is incomplete without exploring its legendary side dishes, each one a star in its own right.

The Table’s Staple: Radish Omelette (菜脯煎蛋)

You will see this on every table for a reason. A fluffy egg omelette is pan-fried with masterful heat control, achieving a perfectly golden-brown, fragrant, and slightly crispy exterior while the inside remains tender. The secret ingredient is “cai pu” (菜脯) — finely chopped, salty, and crunchy preserved radish bits that are folded into the egg, providing an incredible burst of texture and savory flavor in every bite.

The Flavor Bomb: Stir-Fried Clams (爆炒花甲)

Another signature dish, these stir-fried clams are a lesson in flavor extraction. Though the shells are small, the meat inside is incredibly plump and juicy. They are flash-fried in a searing hot wok with aromatics, creating a savory sauce that coats every single clam. For their low price, the sheer amount of flavor they deliver is astounding.

Chunmei Goose Restaurant (春梅里鹅肉店) — The Soul of Chaoshan Feasts

In the culinary world of Chaoshan, two sayings reveal a profound truth: “Without braise, there is no joy,” and more importantly, “Without goose, there is no feast.” Goose isn’t just a dish here; it’s a centerpiece of celebration and a symbol of hospitality. Chunmei Goose Restaurant, a household name with nearly half a century of history, is one of the best places to understand this deep-rooted tradition.

There’s a classic local saying, “Jiu qi, e rou duo” (酒起鹅肉剁), which means, “When the drinks are poured, the goose meat is chopped.” It paints a vivid picture of communal joy, where the rhythmic sound of a cleaver hitting a chopping board signals the start of a wonderful meal among friends and family.

The Lion-Head Goose & The Master Brine

The star of the show is the local Lion-head goose, a massive bird that can weigh over 5 kilograms. While its meat is naturally a bit coarse, this characteristic makes it the perfect canvas for the slow, flavor-infusing process of braising. The true secret, however, lies in the “lu shui” (卤水)—the master brine. Each restaurant’s brine is a closely guarded recipe, but the soul of Chaoshan “lu shui” is a special ingredient: galangal (南姜). This aromatic root, with its complex, peppery, and slightly sweet notes, imparts the unique and unforgettable flavor that defines the region’s braised dishes.

The cooking technique is an art in itself. The goose is not simply left to boil. Instead, it’s repeatedly lifted from the bubbling brine, a process that allows the meat to cool slightly and the skin to tighten. This meticulous method prevents the meat from becoming tough and masterfully locks the fragrant brine deep within the flesh.

How to Order and What to Savor

You don’t order a whole or half goose here; you order by the part. For a comprehensive experience, get a Braised Platter (卤味拼盘). A three-item platter is perfect for sampling the essentials:

• Goose Meat (卤鹅肉): Forget any preconceptions of dry poultry. This meat is firm, succulent, and deeply savory without being greasy.
• Goose Intestine (卤鹅肠): A textural delight. It’s both crispy and smooth, with a rich flavor from the small amount of fat it retains. Dip it in the provided garlic-vinegar sauce to cut the richness.
• Goose Feet (卤鹅脚): A true delicacy, these are packed with collagen, offering a wonderfully springy, gelatinous chew.

The Ultimate Indulgence: Goose Foie Gras (鹅粉肝)

If you see this on offer, order it without hesitation. This is a daily limited special and the most coveted part of the goose. Known as “fen gan” (粉肝), its texture is entirely different from regular goose liver. It is unbelievably powdery-smooth, tender, and silky, literally melting the moment it touches your tongue. The flavor is so rich and delicate that it easily rivals high-end French foie gras. It is an absolutely sublime experience that will have you wishing you had a bigger appetite.

Jinsha Azhou Fish Roll Shop (金砂阿洲鱼册店) — A Seafood Hotpot Sanctuary

There’s a famous saying in this part of China: “No cow can leave Chaoshan alive, and no fish can escape a Chaoshan person’s pot.” While beef hotpot may be more famous, the city’s relationship with seafood is just as profound. Azhou is a perfect example—a private sanctuary for Shantou’s veteran gourmands. It champions the philosophy that high-end ingredients require the simplest cooking methods, featuring a sublime seafood hotpot experience that lets the freshness of the ocean speak for itself.

The “No-Menu” Experience: Choosing Your Catch

When you walk into Azhou, don’t look for a menu. Instead, your eyes will be drawn to the large, glass-fronted chillers, which serve as the restaurant’s living pantry. The display is a testament to the region’s biodiversity, showcasing an incredible variety of the day’s freshest catch. You’ll see prized fish like Leopard Coral Grouper (东星斑) and Tiger Grouper (老虎斑), formidable Marbled Eels (鲈鳗), plump Cuttlefish (墨斗鱼), and bright Kuruma Prawns (九节虾), alongside many other local species.

The process is wonderfully direct: you simply point to what you want, and the staff will weigh it for you. The prices are fair, and the quality is impeccable.

Masters of the Blade and Broth

Once you’ve made your selections, the magic happens in a simple, clear broth, often fortified with a few pieces of bitter melon and pork belly to add a subtle depth and balance.

Must-Try: Wild Marbled Eel (野生鲈鳗)

This is a strong recommendation and a true delicacy. Known as the “king of eels,” this migratory fish has thick, collagen-rich skin and succulent flesh. Sliced thick and cooked in the clear broth, it undergoes a stunning transformation, becoming simultaneously crispy and tender. Enjoy it with a simple soy sauce dip, or do as the locals do and pair it with a tangy sour plum sauce (酸梅汁) for an unforgettable burst of flavor.

A Feat of Skill: Deboned ‘Nage’ Fish (脱骨那哥鱼)

This dish is a showcase of pure knife skills. The ‘Nage’ fish is known for being delicious but notoriously full of tiny, sharp bones. The chefs at Azhou, however, are masters. They use a special technique of patting the fish with the side of their cleaver to loosen the flesh from the skeleton, then deftly remove the entire bone structure, leaving behind a pristine, boneless fillet. Simply blanch it in the hotpot and enjoy its sweet, delicate meat without any fear of bones.

The Art of the Fish Paste: Rolls and Balls

Chaoshan artisans are masters of transforming fish into new textures. At Azhou, you must try their handmade specialties.

The Signature Fish Rolls (招牌鱼册) are named for their unique shape. Fresh fish paste is meticulously scraped with a knife blade into thin, wavy sheets that resemble ancient book scrolls (“册”). They retain the pure, sweet flavor of the fish but have a wonderfully springy, al dente bite.

The Handmade Fish Balls (手打鱼丸) may look plain in comparison, but their texture is even firmer and bouncier. They are a testament to the power of simple, perfectly executed technique, bursting with an intensely fresh, clean flavor.

Laohu Beef Guo Tiao (老胡牛肉粿) — The City’s Everyday Staple

There is a saying that holds true across the globe: “Where there are Chaoshan people, there is Guo Tiao.” This simple rice noodle dish is more than just food; it’s the beloved, beating heart of the local diet. In the streets and alleys of Shantou, you are never far from a shop steaming and serving it. Locals enjoy it for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even as a late-night supper. Its importance cannot be overstated—it’s estimated that nearly a million kilograms of these fresh noodles are consumed in the Chaoshan region every single day.

Guo Tiao vs. He Fen: A Lesson in Texture

At first glance, you might mistake Guo Tiao (粿条) for the more widely known Cantonese He Fen (河粉). While they look similar, the difference lies in the craft. He Fen often has starch added to the rice slurry, resulting in a more elastic, resilient, and slightly translucent noodle. Chaoshan Guo Tiao, however, is a purist’s creation, made with nothing but rice and water. This results in a noodle that is more opaque, with a thicker, softer, and more substantial mouthfeel that beautifully soaks up the flavors of the broth it’s served in.

Ordering at Laohu: The Choice of Soup or Dry

Laohu Beef Guo Tiao is a classic, no-frills neighborhood eatery where the focus is entirely on the quality of the food. Everything is made fresh to order, and the air is thick with the fragrant aroma of simmering beef bone broth. Your main decision here is a crucial one: will you have it in soup, or dry?

The Classic: Soup Guo Tiao (汤粿)

This is the ultimate comfort food. A generous portion of silky noodles is served in a deeply flavorful, clear beef bone broth. The bowl is then piled high with slices of fresh beef, blanched for mere seconds until they are exquisitely tender with a delicate pink center. Even the most basic 25 RMB bowl is a revelation. Dip the tender beef into a bit of Shacha sauce for the perfect bite. The portion is so generous and the flavor so satisfying, it truly feels like a bowl full of happiness.

The Bolder Choice: Dry Guo Tiao (干粿)

If you prefer a more intense flavor experience, order the dry version. The noodles are tossed in a rich, savory sauce (often a blend of Shacha, lard, and soy sauce) and topped with the same tender beef. You might worry it would be too heavy, but the dish is served with a brilliant accompaniment: a small bowl of light, clear beef ball soup on the side. The soup, fragrant with celery, acts as the perfect palate cleanser, allowing you to alternate between the rich noodles and the refreshing broth for a perfectly balanced meal.

Dashu Cheong Fun (大树肠粉) — A Different Kind of Rice Noodle Roll

Your culinary exploration of Shantou’s rice-based delicacies continues with another local obsession: Cheong Fun (肠粉), or steamed rice noodle rolls. The local passion for this dish is no exaggeration. On Longyan South Road, a famous food street, you’ll find nearly a dozen shops dedicated to it. Every Shantou local has their personal favorite, but among the most celebrated is Dashu Cheong Fun.

Chaoshan Style vs. Cantonese Style

If you’re familiar with the silky, often plain, soy-sauce-drizzled Cheong Fun from Guangzhou or Hong Kong, prepare for a different experience. Chaoshan-style Cheong Fun is a heartier, more rustic creation. The rice noodle sheets are typically a bit thicker, giving them a satisfying, slightly chewy texture. But the biggest differences lie in the fillings and the sauce.

Instead of adding fillings after the noodle is steamed, the Chaoshan method involves mixing the raw ingredients—be it seafood or beef—in a small bowl first. This mixture is then spread directly onto the rice slurry before the entire sheet is steamed. This allows the flavors of the fillings to infuse the noodle itself. Furthermore, the sauce in Shantou is a unique, savory, and slightly thick soy-based gravy, often enhanced with bits of crunchy preserved radish (菜脯), which is a world away from the thin, sweet soy sauce of its Cantonese cousin.

The Offerings at Dashu

At Dashu, the focus is on fresh, quality ingredients that shine through the simple preparation.

Seafood Cheong Fun (海鲜肠粉)

A fantastic and affordable choice. The roll is packed with fresh shrimp, egg, and green vegetables. The rice noodle sheet has a pleasant resilience, and the savory gravy, combined with the crunchy bits of preserved radish, creates a wonderful medley of textures and flavors in every bite.

Beef Cheong Fun (牛肉肠粉)

This version is a true flavor bomb. Finely minced beef is mixed with fragrant celery bits before being steamed into the noodle roll. The celery’s aroma permeates the beef, creating a uniquely fragrant and savory filling that is incredibly satisfying. It’s a classic pairing that highlights the creativity of Chaoshan cuisine.

Aixi Dry Noodles (爱西干面) — A Taste of Generations

In Shantou, the local affection for noodles extends beyond soupy broths. The love Chaoshan people have for “Gan Mian” (干面), or dry noodles, is just as profound as their passion for Guo Tiao and Cheong Fun. On Waima Road, you’ll find the legendary Aixi Dry Noodles, an institution that has been serving the community for over 70 years. For many, this isn’t just a meal; it’s the city’s collective taste memory, a flavor that has been passed down through generations.

The Anatomy of a Perfect Bowl

At first glance, you might compare Chaoshan dry noodles to Wuhan’s famous “Hot Dry Noodles,” but the local version is intentionally even drier, designed to be a canvas for its incredibly rich sauce. The process starts with classic alkaline noodles, which are flash-boiled to achieve a perfectly firm, springy texture, then drained thoroughly.

The magic, however, lies in the complex sauce waiting at the bottom of the bowl. It’s a masterful, fragrant concoction of peanut butter, savory Shacha sauce, rich master brine (卤汁), soy sauce, and aromatic lard. The noodles are then topped with generous, tender slices of braised lean pork and a sprinkle of fresh scallions.

The Essential Ritual: Mix and Savor

Before you take your first bite, you must perform the essential ritual: dig your chopsticks deep into the bowl and mix everything vigorously. As you toss the noodles, the thick, fragrant sauce from the bottom coats every single strand. The aroma that rises is absolutely intoxicating.

The first bite is a revelation. The noodles are wonderfully firm and chewy (“jing dao tan ya” / 劲道弹牙), and the sauce is a symphony of savory, nutty, and rich flavors. It’s a simple concept executed to perfection.

The Perfect Partner: The Side Soup

You’ll never see these dry noodles served alone. The standard set (标配) always includes a bowl of soup on the side. This isn’t just a simple broth; it’s a light yet flavorful soup simmered from pork bones and filled with an assortment of delicious treasures like handmade fish balls, meat balls, and tender meat slices. It serves as the perfect companion, cleansing the palate and providing a soothing warmth between bites of the intensely flavored noodles.

Xiao Gongyuan Old Brand Zongqiu (小公园老牌粽球) — A Hidden Alleyway Treasure

Sometimes, the most unforgettable flavors are not found in grand restaurants, but are tucked away in the city’s humble corners. You’ll find that Shantou’s most delicious Zongqiu (粽球), or glutinous rice dumplings, might just be hidden in a narrow alleyway. In Chaoshan, these savory parcels are a beloved traditional snack enjoyed year-round, not just during the Dragon Boat Festival.

A Tale of Two Shops: Finding the Authentic Original

Your destination is a shop with decades of history, located in an alley directly opposite the old Tianhou Palace (Laoma Gong). But be aware: finding the *original* shop is part of the adventure. For years, this legendary spot was known as “Laoma Gong Zongqiu.” However, due to a trademark issue in 2019, that name was acquired by a new shop at the alley’s entrance. The original masters had to rename their historic establishment to “Xiao Gongyuan Old Brand Zongqiu.”

As the original author wisely noted, “We’re here for the taste, not the brand.” So, ignore the newer storefront at the entrance and venture deep into the alley to find the true, time-honored original.

The Masters at Work

Inside the modest shop, you can witness the magic firsthand. Here, a team of “lao shifu” (老师傅), or old masters, continue the tradition of wrapping each zongqiu entirely by hand. The air is filled with the subtle aroma of bamboo leaves and cooked rice. Watching their skilled, practiced hands deftly fold the leaves and pack the fillings is a glimpse into a craft preserved over decades. It’s no wonder the taste remains unchanged.

The ‘Shuang Peng’ Experience: Sweet Meets Savory

What you must order is the signature “Shuang Peng” Special Double-Filled Zongqiu (双烹特制双加料粽球). “Shuang Peng” literally means “dual-flavor,” and it is the pinnacle of Chaoshan zongqiu artistry, masterfully blending sweet and savory ingredients within a single, substantial parcel.

The dumpling itself is hefty and firm-textured. But the real treasure lies within. Cutting it open reveals a kaleidoscope of over eight different fillings. Savory notes come from umami-rich dried shrimp (虾米), tender dried scallops (干贝), and a rich, decadent salted egg yolk (蛋黄). These are balanced by the earthy sweetness of chestnuts (板栗), ginkgo nuts (白果), peanuts (花生), and a smooth, delicate lotus seed paste (莲蓉).

The result is a complex, multi-layered flavor profile unlike any other. It is savory, salty, and subtly sweet all at once, with no single flavor overpowering the others. It’s a harmonious masterpiece in a bamboo leaf wrapper that absolutely deserves a five-star review.

Haiji Pork Blood Soup (海记猪血汤) — A Breakfast of Champions

The concept of pork blood soup may sound simple, but at Haiji, it’s a dish so profoundly delicious it will win over any skeptic. For countless Shantou locals, this is the ultimate breakfast, especially on a cool morning when its warmth radiates through you. Tucked away next to the bustling Longyan Market, Haiji’s storefront is modest and unassuming, but its reputation is colossal—it’s not only a local “must-eat” spot but was also famously featured in the popular culinary documentary, **”Breakfast in China.”**

The 5 A.M. Secret to Success

The secret to Haiji’s incredible soup is no secret at all: it’s an unwavering commitment to absolute freshness. It’s said that the owner rises at 5 a.m. every single day to personally source and prepare the pork blood and a myriad of other ingredients. This dedication is the soul of the dish and the reason the shop closes its doors by 1:30 p.m.—once the day’s fresh supply is gone, it’s gone.

Building Your Perfect Bowl

This is far more than just pork blood. The experience at Haiji is interactive. You get to build your perfect bowl from an impressive array of fresh ingredients. The base is a rich, flavorful broth that can be customized with your choice of pork offal (猪杂碎), lean meat, and even fresh seafood like plump oysters and sweet shrimp.

Then comes the crucial choice of greens. You can select from four local varieties: motherwort (益母草), watercress (西洋菜), Breynia fruticosa (珍珠花菜), or wolfberry leaves (枸杞叶). These are not mere garnishes; they are quickly blanched in the hot broth to add a fresh, slightly bitter counterpoint that masterfully balances the richness of the meat and blood, reflecting the Chaoshan philosophy of dietary wellness.

A Symphony of Flavors and Textures

The star of the show, of course, is the pork blood itself. Forget any preconceptions you may have. Here, it is impeccably fresh, resulting in a texture that is delicate, silky-smooth, and unbelievably tender, melting in your mouth. For an extra kick, do as the locals do and dip the pieces in a bit of fish sauce and chili paste.

To experience the full range, try the Signature Pork Blood Soup (招牌猪血汤), a lavish combination of pork blood, liver, lean meat, meat patties, shrimp, and oysters. Or, for a heartier meal, get the Motherwort Pork Offal Soup (益母草猪杂汤), which includes intestines and lung. Both are an incredible value, packing a universe of flavor and freshness into a single, steaming bowl.

The Unmissable Sidekick: Fried Dumplings (煎饺)

While you’re there, you absolutely must order a plate of their fried dumplings. You will see them on nearly every table. These are not your average dumplings; they have incredibly thin, crispy skins that give way to a juicy, multi-ingredient filling with a fragrant hint of pepper. Be careful with your first bite—they are famously filled with hot, savory soup that will burst out.

Qiusheng Snack Shop (秋盛小吃店) — A Masterclass in “Guo”

You might wonder, “Just how many types of ‘Guo’ (粿) exist in Chaoshan?” The truth is, not even the locals can count them all. It’s crucial to distinguish this “Guo” from the noodle dish “Guo Tiao.” This “Guo” refers to a vast category of savory (and sometimes sweet) snacks made from rice flour or sweet potato flour. Historically, these were ceremonial foods, offerings for gods and ancestors during festivals. Today, they are a beloved part of daily life, and there is no better place to taste their authentic, home-style goodness than at Qiusheng Snack Shop.

This humble eatery is a local treasure. Founded by a former master from another legendary snack shop, its most loyal customers are the neighborhood’s “ayi” and “abo” (aunties and uncles)—the ultimate sign of authentic, time-honored flavor. The moment you approach, the irresistible aroma of frying from the kitchen will immediately whet your appetite.

A Trio of Fried Delights

At Qiusheng, the freshly made Guo are fried to order. Here are three classics you must try.

1. Hou Guo (鲎粿): The Modern Classic

This fascinating snack has a unique story. Traditionally, it was made with the meat of the horseshoe crab (鲎). However, since the crab became a protected species, the recipe was cleverly adapted. Today, the filling consists of savory shrimp and a whole quail egg, encased in a thick, starchy rice-flour batter.

Once fried, it’s cut open with scissors and drizzled with soy sauce and Shacha sauce. The texture is a delightful surprise: a soft, springy, almost jelly-like interior with a lightly crisped skin, all bathed in a savory, umami-rich sauce.

2. Bai Tao Guo (白桃粿): The Crispy Parcel

Named for its beautiful “white peach” shape, this Guo offers a fantastic textural contrast. It’s fried in hot oil over a high flame, resulting in an ultra-crispy, golden-brown shell. When you bite through the crunch, you’re greeted with a steaming hot and fragrant filling of mushrooms, dried shrimp, chestnuts, and peanuts. It’s savory, satisfying, and incredibly fragrant.

3. Sun Guo (笋粿): The Author’s Favorite

For many, this is the star of the show. The “Sun Guo,” or Bamboo Shoot Guo, has a simpler filling, but its flavor is absolutely stunning. The outer skin is fried to a perfect golden crisp, while the inside is packed with finely diced bamboo shoots and umami-rich dried shrimp. The bamboo shoots provide a fresh, sweet crunch that perfectly complements the savory shrimp. It is, as the original author put it, “an amazing, super delicious first bite!”

Fuming Oyster Omelette (福铭蚝烙) — A Crispy, Savory Masterpiece

When you are in Shantou, a coastal city blessed with oceanic bounty, you absolutely must not miss “Hao Luo” (蚝烙), the iconic Chaoshan oyster omelette. Locals have many ways to prepare oysters; the large, prized ones are often steamed or raw marinated. But the smaller, sweeter oysters are reserved for this special dish, a crispy, savory pancake that is beloved by all. While there are many places to find it, Fuming, a humble spot on the food-centric Longyan Road, is a perfect place to taste this classic.

The Sizzle and the Aroma: A Treat for the Senses

The experience begins before you even take a bite. You’ll hear it first: the loud, satisfying sizzle of batter hitting a hot, well-seasoned flat-top griddle. Then, the aroma hits you. The secret to an exceptionally fragrant “Hao Luo” is that it’s fried not in regular oil, but in rich, flavorful lard. The smell alone is enough to make your mouth water, building anticipation as you watch your omelette transform from liquid batter to a golden, crispy disc.

The Secret to a Perfect “Hao Luo”

The genius of the dish lies in its simple but precise technique. Fresh, small oysters are first coated in a viscous sweet potato starch batter. This is a crucial step: the batter creates a protective seal around each oyster, locking in its moisture and preventing it from shrinking and toughening in the intense heat. The mixture is poured onto the hot griddle, followed by a generous drizzle of beaten egg, which binds everything together and helps form the golden crust.

Texture and Taste: The Final Product

What arrives at your table is a masterclass in textural contrast, perfectly embodying the Chinese culinary concept of “wai jiao li run” (外焦里润)—crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. The edges of the omelette are golden-brown, lacey, and delightfully crunchy. But the center is soft and slightly chewy, packed with plump, juicy oysters that burst with the fresh taste of the sea.

To complete the experience, you must dip each piece in the accompanying sweet chili sauce. The sauce’s gentle sweetness and tangy kick cut through the richness of the lard, creating a perfectly balanced and utterly addictive bite. The flavor will linger long after you’ve finished.

Ancestral Sugar Scallion Pancake (祖传糖葱薄饼) — A Sweet, Crispy Treasure

For many, the first glimpse of this enchanting snack was on the acclaimed culinary documentary series “A Bite of China.” This historic and beloved Chaoshan specialty, the Sugar Scallion Pancake, is a masterpiece of texture and handmade craft. Its charming name, “Tang Cong” (糖葱), or “Sugar Scallion,” comes from the appearance of the main ingredient—a brittle, hollow sugar tube that looks remarkably like a section of a white scallion.

You will find small stalls selling this treat throughout the city. While the author visited one on Longyan South Road, the truth is that most vendors offer a similarly high-quality, delicious product. There’s no need to hunt for one specific shop; if you see a stall, don’t hesitate to buy one.

The Art of Pulled Sugar

The “sugar scallion” itself is the star of the show, and it’s still made by hand using a traditional, laborious technique. The process begins with boiling sugar syrup down to the perfect consistency. Then, the real artistry begins. The hot, brownish sugar mass is repeatedly pulled, stretched, and folded, incorporating air into its structure. This physically demanding process gradually transforms the sugar, turning it from brown to a brilliant, pearly white.

The final product is a marvel of confectionary engineering. If you look closely at a piece, you’ll see a large central hole surrounded by exactly sixteen smaller, perfectly formed holes. This intricate, honeycomb-like structure is the secret to its incredibly light and spectacularly crispy texture.

The Perfect Assembly

Watching your pancake being made is part of the fun. First, the vendor lays out a crepe-like wrapper, a skin so delicate it’s often described as being “as thin as Xuan paper” (薄如宣纸).

Next, they snap a few pieces of the brittle sugar scallion onto the wrapper. A generous spoonful of fragrant, freshly crushed roasted peanuts and sesame seeds is sprinkled on top, and sometimes a sprig of fresh cilantro is added for a surprising aromatic kick. Finally, it’s all folded into a neat, rectangular parcel, ready to be eaten immediately.

The First Bite: A Symphony of Crunch

The experience is a true symphony of textures. The soft, delicate wrapper gives way to a loud, satisfying shatter as you bite through the crispy sugar scallion. The clean, airy sweetness of the sugar is perfectly balanced by the nutty, roasted flavor of the peanuts and sesame. It’s a simple, elegant, and utterly delightful snack that captures the ingenuity of Chaoshan street food.

Sweet Soups & Desserts (甜汤) — The Sweet Side of Shantou

In Chaoshan, the sweet conclusion to a meal or a delightful afternoon treat is known as “Tian Tang” (甜汤), or “sweet soup.” Similar to Cantonese “Tong Sui,” it’s an essential part of the food culture, but often with a richer, sweeter profile and unique local specialties you won’t find anywhere else. Here is your guide to four unmissable dessert experiences in Shantou.

1. Xiyi Sweet Soup (细姨甜汤) — For a Taste of Tradition

This local chain is a reliable spot for classic Chaoshan desserts. Your mission here is to try the legendary “Ya Mu Nian” (鸭母捻). The peculiar name, which translates to “duck mother’s pinch,” is said to come from the fact that the oval-shaped glutinous rice balls either resemble duck eggs or float like little white ducks on the surface of the sweet soup.

A single bowl contains three different, silky-smooth fillings: sweet red bean paste, earthy taro paste, and nutty black sesame. They are served in a warm, fragrant syrup with red dates, barley, and ginkgo nuts. It’s a comforting and perfectly balanced dessert.

Another must-try is the refreshing “Qing Xin Wan Lu Dou Shuang” (清心丸绿豆爽). This features chewy, translucent jellies made from a local plant, served with sweet, tender peeled mung beans. It’s a perfect thirst-quencher.

Location: No. 61, Changping Road, Shantou 地址: 汕头市长平路61号

Must-Try: Ya Mu Nian (鸭母捻), Qing Xin Wan Lu Dou Shuang (清心丸绿豆爽).

Avg. Cost: ¥10 RMB per person

2. Zhang Qinde Douhua (张钦德·广场老牌豆花甜汤) — An Iconic Tofu Pudding

This 30-year-old institution is a true Shantou food landmark. Having started as a humble mobile cart near the People’s Square, it’s now a must-visit spot for its unique take on “Douhua” (豆花), or tofu pudding. Forget the soft, silky versions you may know. Chaoshan Douhua is intentionally crafted to be very thick and firm, with a texture closer to a dense pudding.

The flavor is also distinct, with a robust and pure soybean taste. It’s served unadorned in a bowl, then generously blanketed with a mixture of fine peanut powder, sesame powder, and both brown and white sugar. The result is an intensely sweet treat that is sure to satisfy any sugar craving. If you prefer a milder sweetness, you can ask them to go easy on the sugar.

3. Miqi Dessert Shop (米琦甜品店) — For a Rare, Chewy Treat

This old-school dessert shop is where you can find a rare traditional snack called “Luo Tang Qian” (落汤钱). There’s a catchy local saying that goes, “Eat Luo Tang Qian, and you’ll have money!” This treat, traditionally eaten during festivals, is made from a large disc of glutinous rice cake.

It’s pan-fried in a little oil until the surface is lightly crisped, then generously coated in a fragrant mixture of roasted peanut powder, sesame, and sugar. The vendor then uses scissors to cut it into bite-sized, chewy pieces. Despite being fried, it remains wonderfully soft, sticky, and smooth, with a delightful sweet and nutty flavor.

Also try their “Wu Guo Tang” (五果汤), or Five-Fruit Soup. It’s a nourishing sweet soup filled with more than five ingredients, including red dates, lotus seeds, barley, and white fungus, offering a different kind of traditional sweetness.

Location: No. 29, Jinyuan Road, Shantou 地址: 汕头市金园路29号

Must-Try: Luo Tang Qian (落汤钱), Five-Fruit Soup (五果汤).

Avg. Cost: ¥10 RMB per person

4. Yangji Almond Tea (杨记杏仁茶) — Simple & Authentic

For a simple, authentic taste of traditional ground pastes, head to Yangji. This decade-old neighborhood shop holds its own on the competitive Longyan Road. They specialize in freshly ground Almond Tea (杏仁茶) and Black Sesame Paste (芝麻糊). Served in small, unassuming bowls, both are incredibly smooth, rich, and intensely aromatic—a testament to the quality of the ingredients. It’s a simple, heartwarming, and very affordable treat.

Fruits & Drinks — The Freshest Flavors of Shantou

Thanks to its subtropical climate, Shantou is blessed with an abundance of sweet, fragrant fruits year-round. But true to their creative spirit, locals have developed unique ways to enjoy them that go far beyond simply eating them plain. From savory fruit salads to intensely thick fruit slushies and culturally rich milk teas, here’s how to drink and snack your way through the city’s freshest flavors.

1. Aqun Gancao Fruits (阿群甘草水果) — A Sweet and Savory Infusion

One of the most unique local snacks is Gancao Fruits (甘草水果). Instead of just eating fresh fruit, Shantou locals love to have it chopped into chunks and drizzled with a special, house-made licorice (甘草) syrup. The syrup is subtly sweet and savory, enhancing the natural flavor of the fruit rather than masking it. Aqun is a fantastic spot to experience this tradition.

The shop’s display window is a dazzling mosaic of color, featuring dozens of seasonal fruits, some freshly cut and others lightly pre-marinated. The selection is almost overwhelming. A great tip: if you’re unsure about a particular fruit, the friendly owner will happily offer you a sample.

Once you’ve made your selection, the fruit is weighed and boxed up. But the final touch is crucial. Along with the licorice syrup, you’ll be given a small packet of sour plum powder (酸梅粉). The combination is magical: the fruit’s natural sweetness, the subtle herbal notes of the licorice, and the tangy kick of the plum powder all come together to create an incredibly refreshing and complex flavor. It transforms ordinary fruit into something truly extraordinary.

2. Yaqiang Juice Ice (亚强果汁冰) — The Ultimate Refreshment

Yaqiang is a local legend, an “internet celebrity” (网红) in the world of Shantou’s juice bars, and for good reason. They specialize in “Guozhi Bing” (果汁冰), or Juice Ice. This isn’t your typical thin juice; it’s a thick, slushy-like beverage made from blending generous amounts of real, high-quality fruit with ice. The result is intensely flavorful and incredibly refreshing.

The author’s Strawberry Mulberry (草莓桑葚) blend was a perfect example: thick and pulpy, with a delightful graininess from the strawberry seeds. The flavor was a perfect balance of sweet and sour, with the rich aroma of the mulberries shining through. You can mix and match from dozens of fruits to create your own perfect combination.

A helpful tip: The shop is famously popular and often has long queues. If you visit during the colder winter months, you might be lucky enough to walk right up, as the author did. Also, note that they don’t open until 1 p.m.

3. Yinggehun (英歌魂) — A Taste of Local Tea Culture

You can’t leave Chaoshan without trying a cup of its very own local milk tea. Originating from the nearby city of Puning, Yinggehun (英歌魂) is a popular chain deeply rooted in Chaoshan culture. The name itself, “Soul of Yingge,” is a tribute to the “Yingge Dance,” a powerful, traditional folk dance that depicts the heroic stories of the 108 heroes from the classic novel *Water Margin*.

The drinks are beautifully presented with a modern “Guofeng” (国风), or Chinese national style, aesthetic. The author tried the White Peach Qin Xue (白桃沁雪), a layered drink with a cream topping sprinkled with dried strawberry bits. The flavor was a pleasant mix of sweet and slightly salty, with a light tea base that allowed the fresh aroma of peach to come through. It’s a stylish and affordable way to taste a modern Chaoshan creation.

Part II: Exploring the Sights of Shantou

While Shantou is undeniably a food lover’s paradise, to only eat here is to miss half the story. This is a city of memory, a place filled with a profound, down-to-earth “marketplace atmosphere” (市井气) that feels more like a living community than a polished tourist destination. It may lack the chic boutiques of other coastal cities, but it offers something far more precious: a tangible connection to the past. Walking its streets feels like stepping back into your own childhood memories.

Your sightseeing journey in Shantou has two main pillars: first, the architectural heritage of the Old Town centered on Xiao Gongyuan, which tells the story of the city’s golden age as a bustling port; and second, the natural beauty of the Que Shi Scenic Area, offering breathtaking panoramic views. This section is your guide to these essential experiences.

Xiao Gongyuan (小公园) & The Old Town — A Walk Through History

To walk into Shantou’s Old Town is to open a living history book. This district was once the most prosperous commercial center in all of eastern Guangdong, with a magnificent collection of “Qilou” (骑楼), or arcade-style shophouses, that were said to rival those of Shanghai in their heyday. Though many have been recently renovated—making them cleaner but, some say, sacrificing a bit of their lived-in soul—their grandeur is undeniable. The ornate columns, European-style arched windows, and intricate carvings all speak of a glorious and cosmopolitan past.

The Pavilion and the Radial Streets

At the very heart of the district is “Xiao Gongyuan” (小公园). This name, meaning “Small Park,” is slightly misleading, as it refers not to a park but to the entire historic area centered around the iconic, octagonal Sun Yat-sen Memorial Pavilion (中山纪念亭). First built in 1934 and most recently reconstructed in 2016 using traditional mortise-and-tenon joinery, this pavilion is the undisputed landmark of the Old Town. From this central point, the main streets—famously known as the “Four Yongs and One Shengping” (四永一升平)—radiate outwards like the spokes of a wheel, a classic example of early 20th-century urban planning that makes the area both unique and fascinating to explore.

Icons of Commerce: An Architectural Tour

As you stroll down these radial streets, you’re surrounded by architectural treasures that each tell a piece of Shantou’s story as a booming trade hub.

The Nansheng Company Building (百货大楼)

Facing the pavilion is the grandest structure in the area, the former Nansheng Department Store. Built in 1932, this seven-story behemoth was a marvel of its time—a comprehensive commercial center with department stores, a restaurant, a hotel, and even Shantou’s very first elevator! It was the ultimate symbol of the city’s prosperity.

The Shantou Hostel (汕头旅社)

Just a short walk away, this now-famous ruin was once a bustling hotel so popular that finding a spare bed was nearly impossible. Though it closed in 1996, its weathered, melancholic facade has transformed it into an icon for photographers, a beautiful monument to the inevitable passage of time.

Other notable buildings include the striking, fan-shaped Guangdong Provincial Bank building, a masterpiece by a famous architect, and the old Telecom Building, which beautifully fuses Chaoshan craftsmanship with Western decorative patterns.

Xiao Gongyuan by Night: A Different Charm

After sunset, the district undergoes a magical transformation. The historic buildings are bathed in a warm, elegant glow, creating a romantic and charming atmosphere that’s completely different from the daytime hustle. The streets come alive with locals and visitors strolling, enjoying the cool evening air, and soaking in the history. It’s the perfect time for a leisurely walk and offers a wealth of new photographic opportunities.

Tianhou Palace & Guandi Temple (天后宫与关帝庙) — A Testament to Faith and Craft

To truly understand Chaoshan culture, you must understand the role of faith in daily life. As the local saying goes, “Worshipping the gods is a part of life, and a part of existence itself.” (拜神，是潮汕人生活的一部分，也是生命的一部分). Nowhere is this more evident than on Shengping Road, where two magnificent temples, Tianhou Palace and Guandi Temple, stand side-by-side—a unique arrangement that tells the story of Shantou’s identity as a city built by merchants of both the sea and the land.

Laoma Gong: The Seafarers’ Sanctuary

The Tianhou Palace, affectionately known as “Laoma Gong” (老妈宫 or “Old Mother’s Palace”), is one of the few structures in the city that pre-dates Shantou’s official opening as a port. First built in the Qing Dynasty, it is dedicated to Mazu (妈祖), the holy mother and goddess of the sea.

Its location, now inland, was once the city’s shoreline. Fishermen and merchants, before setting sail on perilous journeys, would bring their personal statues of Mazu here to pray for protection. Eventually, to make worship more convenient, they built this permanent temple. It became a spiritual anchor for a community whose fortunes were tied to the unpredictable tides.

The Merchants’ Protector: Guandi Temple

Built directly adjacent to the sea goddess’s temple is the Guandi Temple, dedicated to the martial saint Guan Yu (关羽). While Mazu protected those on the water, Guan Yu was the patron deity of merchants on land, revered as a symbol of loyalty, integrity, and wealth. The construction of this temple right next to the other perfectly illustrates the diverse commercial community of the old port, where seafarers and land-based traders worked and worshipped side-by-side.

A Showcase of Chaoshan Artistry

Both temples are treasure troves of traditional Chaoshan architectural crafts. The most dazzling of these is “Qianci” (嵌瓷), a unique and vibrant art form found on the roof ridges. It’s like a 3D mosaic, but instead of tiles, artisans use custom-fired, brightly colored pieces of porcelain, which are then cut and painstakingly inlaid to create elaborate scenes of dragons, phoenixes, flowers, and figures from folklore. The result is a stunning, jewel-like decoration that glitters in the sun.

Beyond the roofs, be sure to admire the other crafts. Guarding the main halls are magnificent Coiling Dragon Pillars (盘龙柱), each masterfully carved from a single, solid block of stone. The level of detail in the stone and wood carvings throughout the temples is simply breathtaking, showcasing the immense skill of Chaoshan artisans.

Please note: At the time of the author’s visit, the temples were temporarily closed. It is advisable to check the latest opening hours before you go.

Laoma Gong Opera Stage (老妈宫戏台) — A Stage for Gods and People

Directly opposite the Tianhou Palace stands another architectural gem, the recently restored Laoma Gong Opera Stage. With its striking red brick facade, colorful stained-glass windows, and teak wood doors, this building presents a beautiful fusion of Western and Chinese architectural styles that makes it stand out among the surrounding structures.

From Open-Air Stage to Cultural Center

This location has always been a center for community life. In the Qing Dynasty, whenever there was a festival—especially for Mazu’s birthday—a temporary stage would be erected in this very spot. It was a place for performances, primarily traditional shadow puppet shows, and on regular days, it served as a bustling market.

In 1930, the city government built the permanent structure you see today, which served as the city’s primary market. Its third floor housed the Shengping Theater, which is why the building is now known as an opera stage. After years of disuse, it was beautifully restored and reopened as a cultural center and a museum dedicated to the folk customs of the old Shantou port, occasionally hosting live performances once again.

The Ancient Well Within

Step inside, and you’ll discover a piece of history that is even older than the building itself: the “Ma Gong Qian” (妈宫前) ancient well. This round, stone well existed long before Shantou became a major port. Back when this area was the coastline, local fishermen would draw fresh water from this very well to supply their boats before heading out to sea.

As the area developed into a commercial hub, the well continued to be the main water source for the surrounding residents and merchants. Today, it sits preserved within the modern exhibition hall, a silent witness to centuries of change.

Cunxin Shantang Charity Hall (存心善堂) — A Legacy of Compassion

One of the most unique and admirable aspects of Chaoshan culture is the “Shantang” (善堂), or Charity Hall. These are not simply temples or community centers, but a unique form of folk charity organization deeply intertwined with local faith. Founded in 1899 by a group of prominent Shantou merchants, the Cunxin Shantang is one of the oldest and most significant, serving as a pillar of the community for over a century.

A Pillar of Society in Turbulent Times

The Shantang’s role became absolutely critical during the most difficult periods of the city’s history. In the late Qing and Republican eras, when government support was weak, these halls took on immense social responsibility. This was never more true than during the devastating three-year famine that coincided with the Japanese occupation of Shantou in 1939. As the city descended into chaos, the Cunxin Shantang stepped in, providing relief for countless famine victims, arranging burials for the unclaimed dead, and establishing schools and orphanages for children left behind, including the orphans of anti-Japanese martyrs.

The Historic Complex: A Tour of Compassion

The legacy of the Shantang is spread across several historic buildings in the area, each telling a part of its story.

The Main Temple & Its Artistry

The original site on Waima Road houses the Dafen and Guanyin temples. The architecture is a stunning showcase of traditional Chaoshan crafts, especially the roof, which is adorned with brilliant “Qianci” (嵌瓷) ceramic mosaics, intricate wood carvings, and colorful lacquer paintings. It’s worth noting that much of the original structure was damaged in the 1960s, so the incredibly detailed decorations you see today are primarily from a masterful restoration in the 1990s.

The Old Fire Station (存心水龙局)

In 1927, the Shantang organized local merchants to fund and establish Shantou’s first modern fire brigade. This historic building, the “Cunxin Water Dragon Bureau,” was its headquarters. In a remarkable feat of civic pride, they purchased Shantou’s first-ever fire truck from Germany in 1929, which was only the second fire truck in all of Guangdong province at the time. Today, this handsome building has been preserved and now serves as the Shantou Firefighting History Museum.

Cunxin Mansion (存心公馆)

Just across the street stands the grand Cunxin Mansion. This impressive five-story building, with its elegant Chinese-Western fusion architecture, now serves as the Chaoshan Charity Hall Culture Exhibition Hall. If you wish to take a deeper dive into the history and social impact of these unique organizations, this museum is the place to do it.

Shantou Port Opening Culture Exhibition Hall (汕頭開埠文化陳列館) — The Story of a City

Standing elegantly at a historic intersection, this building has lived many lives. It has been a foreign bank, a hospital, and a publishing house. Today, this beautifully preserved, three-and-a-half-story European-style building serves as the Shantou Port Opening Culture Exhibition Hall, a museum that chronicles the city’s dramatic transformation from a humble fishing village into a bustling international port.

The Building: A Witness to History

Built in 1907, the structure itself is a work of art, a refined blend of Chinese and Western architectural sensibilities. It was originally the Shantou branch of the Bank of Taiwan, a symbol of the foreign influence and commercial activity that flooded the city after it opened to trade. Its various identities over the decades mirror the turbulent history of Shantou itself, making it the perfect vessel to house the city’s story.

From Fishing Village to Global Port

Your journey inside begins with a massive and intricate ceramic mural titled “The Years of the Port Opening,” which vividly depicts the city’s past. The exhibition then guides you through Shantou’s meteoric rise. You’ll learn how this area, once a small fishing village known as “Sha Shantou” (沙汕頭), was forcibly opened as a treaty port in 1860 following the Second Opium War.

This pivotal event triggered an explosion of growth. Shantou rapidly surpassed its neighbors to become the undisputed economic and transportation hub of eastern Guangdong. By the 1930s, at the peak of its golden age, the Port of Shantou’s shipping tonnage was the third busiest in all of China, a staggering achievement that cemented its place on the global stage.

Know Before You Go

The exhibition offers a fascinating and essential look into the history that shaped modern Shantou. However, be sure to plan your visit carefully. The museum is closed on Mondays and typically takes a long lunch break on non-weekend days, so it’s best to check the exact opening hours before you head over to avoid disappointment.

Shantou General Post Office Building (汕頭郵政總局大樓) — A Pillar of Communication

Just a short walk from the Port Opening Exhibition Hall stands another magnificent century-old landmark. The Shantou General Post Office Building, commonly known as the “Anping Post Office,” is not just a functioning post office but a remarkable piece of architectural history. In fact, it is one of only two best-preserved, European-style historic postal buildings in all of Guangdong Province, making it a truly significant site.

A Monumental Presence

What immediately strikes you is the building’s grand and authoritative presence. Although it is only two stories high, its design creates an illusion of immense scale. The entire structure rests on a solid granite foundation, from which rise eight massive, Greek-style columns that dominate the facade. This classical design choice gives the building a powerful sense of stability and permanence, befitting a major communications hub of its era.

From Customs Office to Postal Hub

The history of Shantou’s official postal service dates back to 1897, when it was established as one of the first 25 post offices in all of China. The original office was housed within the customs building, but it was severely damaged in the great earthquake of 1918. This disaster necessitated the construction of a new, grand headquarters. This very building was completed in 1922 and has been in continuous operation as the city’s main post office ever since—a century of uninterrupted service.

A Lasting Legacy

As you admire the architecture, be sure to look up. Engraved in the stone above the main entrance are two large characters: “郵局” (Yóujú), meaning “Post Office.” These original, century-old carvings are still perfectly clear and visible, serving as a tangible link to the building’s long and storied past. It’s a powerful reminder of the enduring importance of communication in this historic port city.

The Customs Clock Tower (海关钟楼) — A Symbol of a Bygone Era

The handsome and imposing Customs Clock Tower is one of Shantou’s most significant landmarks, a powerful symbol of the city’s complex history as a treaty port. Its story is the story of modern Shantou itself. In 2019, its importance was officially recognized when it was designated as a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.

From Treaty Port to National Sovereignty

The building’s origins trace back to the aftermath of the Second Opium War. As a result of the unequal “Treaty of Tianjin,” the British-controlled “Chao Customs” was established here in 1860. After the original customs house was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1918, this new, grander building was commissioned by the British and completed in 1921.

For decades, it stood as a symbol of foreign control over the city’s lucrative trade. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, customs sovereignty was returned to the state, and the institution was officially renamed Shantou Customs. Though the customs offices have since moved to a modern facility, this historic clock tower remains, a silent witness to a pivotal century of Shantou’s history.

The Building Today

Today, the meticulously preserved building serves as the Shantou Customs History Exhibition Hall, housing artifacts and displays that tell the story of its past. Its handsome, solid European design remains a prominent and much-admired feature of the old port’s waterfront.

Know Before You Go: Planning Your Visit

This is a crucial tip for this particular location. Unlike other attractions, the Customs History Exhibition Hall has very limited opening hours. It is typically only open to the public on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and statutory public holidays, and it also closes for a lunch break. It is highly recommended that you confirm the exact, up-to-date opening times before you plan your visit to avoid disappointment.

The Guangchang Ferry (广场渡轮) — A Ride Through the Heart of the City

Sometimes the most memorable travel experiences are the simplest. In Shantou, you can find one of these for just one RMB. The Guangchang Ferry is what locals call a “xiao que xing” (小确幸)—a small but certain happiness. It’s more than just public transport; it’s a nostalgic, scenic, and wonderfully authentic journey across the bay.

A Living Piece of History

Before the grand Que Shi Bridge opened in 1999, this humble ferry was the primary lifeline connecting the north and south banks of the city. For generations, the sound of its horn echoing across the water was an inseparable part of Shantou’s daily rhythm, a soundscape now engraved in the hearts of its people. While modern bridges and roads have made it less of a necessity, the ferry endures as both a practical commute for many locals and a beloved experience for visitors seeking a different perspective of the city.

Your 10-Minute Scenic Cruise

The journey from the Citizens’ Plaza Pier on the north bank to the Que Shi Pier on the south takes less than ten minutes, but it’s packed with beautiful views. Find a spot along the railing, feel the sea breeze, and watch the city skyline glide by. It’s a moment of peace and a fantastic way to see the relationship between the old city and the green hills of Que Shi on the opposite shore.

For the most magical experience, try to time your ride for sunset. Watching the sun dip behind the Que Shi Bridge, casting a golden glow across the entire bay, is a truly breathtaking sight and an incredible photo opportunity.

A Pro Tip for Tourists

If you’re taking the ferry just for the scenic experience, here’s a great tip: you don’t have to get off on the other side. Simply stay on board, and when the staff comes around, pay the one RMB fare again by scanning the code. The boat will depart for its return journey shortly after, giving you a seamless and incredibly affordable round-trip cruise.

Que Shi Scenic Area (礐石风景名胜区) — The City’s Most Beautiful Viewpoint

While the heart of Shantou’s charm lies in its bustling streets, its most breathtaking scenery is found by looking down from above. For that, you must cross the bay to the Que Shi Scenic Area. This large nature park on the south bank, directly opposite the Old Town, is a world of lush greenery, rugged granite peaks, and strange, beautiful rock formations. The locals are right: the peak of Que Shi truly holds the most beautiful scenery in all of Shantou.

The entire area is vast, but for most visitors, the best-developed and most accessible section is the **Ta Shan Scenic Area (塔山景区)**, which offers the iconic panoramic views.

A Glimpse of History on the Way

Your journey begins after you disembark at the Que Shi ferry pier. On the walk towards the park entrance, you’ll pass a handsome, two-story colonial building nestled amongst the trees. This is the former British Consulate building, which dates back to 1862. Though it was under renovation during the author’s visit, its elegant architecture serves as a perfect historical prelude to the stunning views that await you at the summit.

The Ascent: An Open-Air Cable Car Ride

While you can hike up the mountain, the most thrilling way to ascend is via the cable car. This is not your typical enclosed cabin; it’s an open-air chairlift that lets your feet dangle high above the forest canopy, making it a small adventure in itself. The ten-minute ride offers a peaceful and ever-expanding view as you glide silently upwards. The air is fresh, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot eagles circling overhead—a sign of the area’s healthy ecosystem.

Piaoran Pavilion: Poetry at the Peak

The cable car delivers you near the summit, and a short walk brings you to the Piaoran Pavilion (飘然亭). This beautiful, traditional round pavilion is not just a viewpoint; it’s a place of high culture. Engraved on its columns is a clever poetic couplet that references two of China’s most famous classical poets, suggesting that if they had ever witnessed the beauty of Que Shi, their most famous lines about stunning landscapes would have been written here instead. It’s a testament to how deeply locals cherish this view.

The Panorama: A City Embracing the Sea

From the pavilion, the entire cityscape of Shantou unfolds before you. It’s a spectacular panorama. Below you are the lush, green hills of Que Shi, dotted with the area’s signature weathered granite boulders. Across the water, the dense urban fabric of the Old Town spreads out, flanked by the modern city and the vastness of the bay. From here, you can truly appreciate Shantou’s unique geography as the only city in China with a beautiful inner sea (内海湾) right in its center.

Shi Paotai Park (石炮台公园) — A Fortress Built of Granite and Rice

To walk into Shi Paotai is to feel the changes of history and touch the mottles of time. This formidable 19th-century fortress, officially named the Qilu Fort (崎碌炮台), is a remarkable feat of military engineering. Its powerful, circular design once stood as a key guardian at the southeastern corner of the old city, strategically overlooking the entrance to Shantou’s inner bay.

The Fortress of Ingenuity

Built between 1874 and 1879, the fort is a testament to Chaoshan ingenuity. Its massive walls, nearly five meters thick, were constructed not with conventional mortar, but with a traditional local binding agent: a mixture of brown sugar, sticky glutinous rice, and shell ash, combined with granite blocks. This made the walls incredibly strong and resilient. The entire fortress is also encircled by a wide, three-meter-deep moat, which served as its first line of defense.

A Tour of the Defenses

Inside, the fort is designed with two levels of cannon emplacements. The lower level is a cool, 300-meter-long circular artillery gallery, with 18 cannon ports peering out from its thick walls. The upper level is an open-air platform with another 18 cannon positions and numerous rifle ports, offering a commanding view.

Look for the 72 small, pagoda-like towers that dot the upper platform. These were not just decorative; they were clever ventilation and communication shafts, providing air and light to the gallery below while also allowing orders to be passed down.

The Ingenious Artillery Ramp

One of the most unique features is the 27-step, wave-patterned stone ramp that connects the central plaza to the upper platform. This was not an aesthetic choice, but a brilliant piece of engineering. The shallow, wavy design made it significantly easier for soldiers to haul the immensely heavy cannons up to the second-level battlements.

A Fort’s Unfortunate Fate

Despite its impressive construction, the fort had a rather unfortunate history. Due to financial issues in the late Qing Dynasty, it stood for years as “a fort without cannons.” After finally being armed, its cannons were ignominiously sold for scrap metal by a local warlord following the 1911 Revolution. It was later used as a prison and then as military barracks before finally finding peace as the public park you can visit today.

Xidi Park (西堤公园) — A Sunset Memorial to the Shantou Diaspora

Located at the southwestern edge of the Old Town, Xidi Park is more than just a beautiful waterfront space; it is a profound place of memory that witnesses Shantou’s entire history, from a small fishing village to a bustling international port. Its most important designation is as a Memorial Site for the “Qiaopi,” which are inscribed on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register.

Understanding “Qiaopi”: Letters of Hope and Hardship

To appreciate this park, you must first understand “Qiaopi” (侨批). This term refers to a unique system that combined family letters with financial remittances, sent home by the millions of Chaoshan people who emigrated overseas to seek a better life. For over a century, these “letters of trust” were the lifeline for countless families back home. Though the system is no longer in use, each Qiaopi is a precious artifact, representing the unbreakable bonds of family, the spirit of trust and integrity, the history of struggle and success overseas, and the deep, unwavering love of the diaspora for their homeland.

Walking on a Map of Memories

At the heart of the park is the Qiaopi Memory Plaza. Here, the ground itself is a giant, engraved map of Shantou’s old town. You can walk across this map and trace the historic streets, finding the locations of the more than 80 different “Qiaopi agencies” that once dotted the city, forming the backbone of this incredible remittance network.

The “Golden Salted Egg Yolk”: Shantou’s Best Sunset

Beyond its historical significance, Xidi Park is famous among locals and visitors for one simple reason: it offers what is arguably the most beautiful sunset view in all of Shantou. The park is perfectly positioned at the confluence of the Rongjiang River and the sea, looking out towards the magnificent Que Shi Bridge. As the day ends, the view is simply magical.

The author of the original travelogue perfectly described the scene: “The setting sun is like a golden salted egg yolk, its light like golden powder sprinkled on the sea surface.” (夕阳犹如一个金色的咸蛋黄，光线宛如黄金粉末洒在海面上). It’s a breathtaking sight that should not be missed.

The Guofan Memorial: A Tribute to Emigrants

At the water’s edge stands a unique, modern sculpture: the “Guofan Memorial Pillar” (过番纪念柱). “Guofan,” or “crossing to foreign lands,” is the local term for the great emigration waves of the past. The pillar is made of stacked, triangular concrete blocks, each one pointing in a different direction. Engraved on their surfaces are the names of major Southeast Asian cities—Singapore, Penang, Bangkok, Jakarta—and their precise distance from Shantou. It’s a powerful and poignant tribute to the millions who departed from this very port, seeking new lives but never forgetting the home they left behind.

Part III: Where to Stay in Shantou

While Shantou is a bustling Special Economic Zone, its hotel industry is not as developed as that of other major cities. However, this works to your advantage, offering affordable and convenient options. For a trip that is centered on culinary exploration, the strategy is simple: stay as close as possible to Longyan Road (龙眼路), the city’s most famous and concentrated food street.

Orange Castle Hotel (橙堡酒店) — A Convenient Base for Foodies

Following this strategy, the Orange Castle Hotel is an excellent and practical choice. Its key advantage is its strategic location, situated right at the intersection of Jinsha Middle Road and Longyan Road. This places you within easy walking distance of a huge number of the must-try eateries mentioned in this guide. The hotel is located on the upper floors of a commercial complex and offers free parking, making it very convenient if you are driving.

The Rooms: Pros and Cons

The guest rooms are surprisingly spacious, offering plenty of room to relax after a long day of eating. A definite plus is the modern bathroom design, which features separate wet and dry areas—a nice touch for a hotel at this price point.

However, it’s worth noting the trade-off for the prime location. The windows are an older, sliding aluminum style, and the soundproofing is not the best. If you are a light sleeper, rooms facing the main street can be a bit noisy. But for most visitors, the incredible convenience of being in the heart of the food district more than makes up for it.

Part IV: Trip Planning & Practical Guide

Now that you’re armed with a long list of incredible eats and sights, it’s time to put it all together. This final section provides a sample itinerary based on the author’s journey, along with essential tips to make your own trip as smooth and delicious as possible.

Your 4-Day Glutton’s Itinerary

This is an intense, food-focused itinerary designed to maximize your culinary experiences. Feel free to adapt it to your own pace and preferences.

A final word of advice: If you come to Shantou for the food, even a full week is not enough. The best approach is to plan your time, but also be ready to wander, explore, and simply eat as much as you happily can!

Essential Know-Before-You-Go