A Culinary Journey in Chaozhou

Foreword

When you chart the geography of flavor across China, Guangdong province invariably claims a top spot. And within Guangdong, the Chaoshan region stands as a monumental peak on this culinary map. This is a place so revered for its food that epicures from all corners of the country make dedicated pilgrimages just to eat.

The heart of Chaoshan beats in three cities: Shantou, Chaozhou, and Jieyang. Each city is a treasure trove of gastronomic wonders, a veritable hall of fame for food lovers. A recent four-day feast in Shantou left an indelible mark, yet the vast world of Chaoshan cuisine beckoned for more.

This guide is born from a return trip, this time to the ancient city of Chaozhou. Prepare to embark on a journey that delves deep into both its celebrated culinary scene and its rich historical tapestry. It’s a comprehensive look at what makes this city so special. So, save this guide, settle in, and get ready to wander the enchanting streets and alleys of Chaozhou.

A Taste of What’s to Come

A visit to Chaozhou is incomplete without experiencing its legendary beef hotpot. The people of Chaoshan have elevated beef to an art form, with exacting standards for everything from the age of the cattle to the method of butchery and the precision of the knife work. One misstep, and the flavor is compromised. This is why, once you’ve tasted beef hotpot in Chaoshan, versions elsewhere will forever seem to fall short.

If you’re a returning visitor to the Chaoshan region, venture beyond the classic and try a different style of beef hotpot. At Shaolin Beef Hotpot, for instance, you’ll discover a unique broth made from rich, savory brine. The signature pot is a yin-yang style, one side a clear, delicate soup and the other a fragrant brine, perfect for cooking both beef and goose, offering a completely new dimension of flavor.

As one of Guangdong’s three major cuisines, Chaozhou (or “Chao”) cuisine is famous worldwide. It prizes meticulous ingredient selection, clean and light flavors, and an emphasis on preserving the original taste of the food. Given Chaoshan’s coastal location, it excels in seafood preparation, creating dishes that can hold their own on any national stage.

When night falls in Chaoshan, the local “supper club” revolves around one thing: late-night congee, or “Ye Mi.” Unlike the high-end delicacies of formal Chaozhou banquets featuring abalone and shark fin, Ye Mi is all about comforting, grassroots food. It’s the heart and soul of local comfort food.

At Lianhua Vegetarian Restaurant, the dishes defy the common perception of vegetarian food as plain or uninspired. Here, vegetarian cooking is transformed into a creative art form. Even if you’re a devoted carnivore, you’ll find yourself captivated by the imaginative and flavorful creations on offer.

A Culinary Journey in Chaozhou

While Shantou might be more famous for elevating Chaozhou cuisine to an art form, Chaozhou itself is the quiet, unassuming birthplace of these legendary flavors. The city is dotted with renowned, time-honored eateries and humble snack stalls that feel deeply connected to daily life. Here, your appetite will be constantly tempted by an endless array of delicacies: beef hotpot, beef balls, kway teow (flat rice noodles), raw marinated seafood, rice noodle rolls, fish dumplings, savory rice dumplings, sweet soups, and fried ice. Faced with such an overwhelming wave of incredible food, the daily question of what to eat becomes a wonderfully delicious dilemma.

Guantang Brothers Beef Hotpot

When you come to Chaozhou, indulging in beef hotpot is not just a suggestion—it’s a requirement. Head to Guantang Town, in the city’s southeast corner, the very origin of Chaoshan beef hotpot. The area is surrounded by slaughterhouses, making it the ultimate benchmark for freshness. You’ll notice many hotpot restaurants in Chaozhou add “Guantang” to their names to signify authenticity. Your destination should be the most popular spot in town: Guantang Brothers Beef.

There are two kinds of beef hotpot in the world: Chaoshan beef hotpot, and Chaoshan beef hotpot found elsewhere. The locals’ devotion to beef is a science, governed by strict rules for cattle age, slaughtering techniques, and butchery skills. Any deviation diminishes the flavor. It’s no wonder that after eating hotpot here, you’ll find that versions back home just don’t compare.

In Chaoshan, eating beef hotpot is a race against time. From slaughter to table, the beef must arrive in under six hours; the best restaurants even manage it within one hour to guarantee peak freshness. This is why you’ll see most hotpot spots feature an open kitchen, allowing you to witness the entire process of the meat being sliced—a visible testament to its freshness that serves as both marketing and a display of pride.

The freshly cut beef is so fresh, in fact, that you might even see the nerve endings still twitching on the plate.

Only the finest parts of the cow, less than a third of the animal, are deemed worthy for hotpot. The meat is meticulously divided into over a dozen different cuts, each with a unique name like neck (脖仁), sirloin (吊龙), spoon (匙柄), shank (花趾), and brisket fat (胸口朥). Each part has a distinct texture and requires a different cutting technique, something that outsiders may not notice, but locals can discern with a single bite.

Most cuts need only a quick swish in the boiling broth for 8 to 15 seconds. Dip it in a bit of Shacha sauce (沙茶酱), a savory condiment that enhances the beef’s natural flavor without overpowering it. Beyond the usual must-try cuts, be adventurous and order the brisket fat (胸口朥). It looks like a slice of pure fat but is actually a type of soft tissue. After boiling for three to five minutes, its texture becomes delightfully crisp and crunchy, releasing more flavor the more you chew.

Shaolin Beef Hotpot

If you’re already familiar with traditional beef hotpot, it’s time to explore a different style. Make your way to Shaolin Beef Hotpot, a place that uses a rich, savory brine as its base. The Yixi branch is a bit off the beaten path, but it’s absolutely worth the special trip.

The restaurant’s specialty is its鸳鸯 (yuānyāng) or “yin-yang” pot, featuring two distinct broths. One side is a clear soup, which comes with eight beef balls and a few slices of bitter melon to cleanse the palate. The other side is a fragrant brine, slow-cooked with aged master brine and a secret blend of spices. Its aroma is so enticing, you’ll be tempted to taste it straight from the pot.

Specialty Sauces and Meats

The dipping sauces here are also unique. Alongside the standard Shacha sauce, you’ll find a medley of fresh celery leaves, chili sauce, pickled vegetables, and a sharp garlic-vinegar sauce specifically for the goose meat. For the full experience, start by placing the goose feet and wings into the brine to simmer for about twenty minutes, allowing them to soak up all the savory flavor. While you wait, cook the fresh goose intestines.

The owner recommends the classic “three dips and three lifts” method for the goose intestines: quickly blanch them in the brine three times until they are perfectly crisp and crunchy. Paired with the garlic-vinegar dip, the taste is absolutely sensational. Meanwhile, the owner will prepare your beef. There’s no menu; simply tell him your party size, and he will slice an appropriate amount of beef for you. At just 25 RMB per plate for any cut, the value is unbeatable.

You might be served three classic cuts: Spoon (匙肉), the shoulder blade meat, which is firm yet tender and springy; Sirloin (吊龙), from the back of the cow, which has a delicate fat cap that makes it incredibly smooth and tender; and Five-Flower Shank (五花趾), the hind leg tendon meat with visible sinews, offering a delightfully chewy and elastic bite.

You can cook the beef in either the clear soup or the brine. The owner will often show you the correct technique: like the goose intestines, just three quick dips and lifts are enough to achieve the perfect texture—tender with a slight springiness. It’s an absolute game-changer!

Youzhong Sao Homestyle Cuisine

Chaozhou is the birthplace of Chao cuisine, and while Shantou may have popularized it, you must have an authentic Chao-style meal while you’re here. After weighing reviews and value, you’ll find a hidden gem called Youzhong Sao Homestyle Cuisine. Although its location is a bit secluded near the Crocodile Exorcism Altar (祭鳄台), the food is incredibly authentic and much more affordable than the popular tourist spots in the city center. Even your ride-share driver might be impressed, asking if a local gourmand led you to this spot.

The restaurant has a very local, unpretentious vibe. There’s no menu; instead, you’ll find all the fresh ingredients neatly arranged on tables and live seafood swimming in tanks. Simply choose what you want, and it will be cooked to order, ensuring ultimate freshness.

Must-Try Seafood Dishes

Chao cuisine is all about simple preparations that highlight the natural sweetness of the ingredients, especially seafood. You cannot leave without trying the steamed crab with noodles (肉蟹蒸面). The crab is chopped and steamed directly over a bed of noodles, a simple method that perfectly extracts its sweet, delicate flavor. The noodles underneath absorb all the savory crab juices, becoming incredibly delicious and addictive.

Another signature dish is the steamed eel with olive paste (橄榄糁蒸鳗鱼). The eel is fatty and tender, with a soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture. The olive paste, mixed with ginger and celery, adds a slightly spicy kick that cuts through the richness and eliminates any fishiness. Simple, home-style dishes like steamed lily bulbs with pine nuts (清蒸百合松子仁) and the refreshing bamboo fungus and scallop soup (竹荪干贝汤) are also executed perfectly, showcasing the clean, pure flavors of Chaozhou cooking.

Xirong Laowei White Congee (西荣老尾白粥)

When you talk about the quintessential late-night supper in Chaoshan, the answer is always white congee, known locally as “Da Leng” (打冷) or, more commonly, “Ye Mi” (夜糜). The name is simple: “Mi” is the Chaoshan word for congee, so “Ye Mi” literally means “night congee.” Instead of chasing the popular tourist spots, find your way to a humble, local gem like Xirong Laowei White Congee. It’s a classic “fly’s restaurant” (苍蝇馆子)—small, unpretentious, and utterly authentic.

Unlike the elaborate dishes of a formal Chaozhou banquet, Ye Mi celebrates grassroots food. The shop is tiny, with just a few tables, and the display of side dishes is modest. This is a place for locals, who come for a simple bowl of congee and a couple of flavorful plates. There’s no menu; just point at what you’d like, and the owner will prepare it for you.

The Star of the Show and Its Companions

The heart of the meal is the white congee itself. Chaoshan-style congee is cooked until the rice grains are distinct but soft, landing texturally somewhere between a porridge and a simple rice soup. It’s the perfect, comforting base for the bold flavors to come.

Chaoshan’s culinary culture is deeply tied to the sea, and your meal here should reflect that. You must try the stir-fried “Bo Ke” (炒薄壳), or thin-shelled clams. These tiny shellfish, at their peak in July and August, hide a sweet, tender morsel of meat. Flash-fried with “wok hei,” their flavor is unbelievably delicious and intensely savory. Similarly, the stir-fried clams with Thai basil (金不换炒花甲) are a must. The unique, fragrant aroma of the basil infuses the plump clam meat, creating a dish that is simply irresistible.

Another essential experience is “Yu Fan” (鱼饭), which translates to “fish rice” but contains no rice at all. It refers to salt-brined sea fish. Freshly caught fish are cooked whole in saltwater, which firms up the flesh while perfectly preserving its natural sweetness. It’s the simplest form of processing that yields the most profound ocean flavor. Enjoy it with a dab of Puning fermented bean paste for a taste that is truly sublime.

Of course, no “Da Leng” is complete without some braised items. The pork intestine and trotter platter (猪肠猪脚拼盘) is slightly salty, making it a perfect match for the plain congee. The intestines are cleaned and cooked perfectly, so they are rich but not greasy. Finally, order a plate of stir-fried jute mallow (炒麻叶菜). This unique local vegetable might look a bit rustic, but it’s surprisingly tender and incredibly fragrant when stir-fried with garlic. It’s a foundational flavor in Chaoshan cuisine that you should definitely try.

Lianhua Vegetarian Restaurant (莲华素食府)

Located directly opposite the famous Kaiyuan Temple, Lianhua Vegetarian Restaurant is a time-honored establishment with at least two decades of history. This is a place that completely shatters the stereotype of vegetarian food being bland or uninspired. Lianhua elevates vegetarian cooking to a high art, creating dishes so inventive and flavorful that they can easily win over even the most dedicated meat-eater.

Signature Dishes: A Feast for the Eyes and Palate

Their signature dish is the magnificent “Que Chao Zhu Ding” (雀巢筑顶), or “Bird’s Nest on the Summit,” a name inspired by a Buddhist legend. Shredded taro is deep-fried into the shape of a bird’s nest and filled with several fried wontons, which resemble little birds. The entire creation is drizzled with a sweet and sour sauce, making it as visually stunning as it is delicious.

The fried wontons themselves are filled with a soft, savory taro paste that uncannily mimics the texture and satisfaction of eating meat. It’s a testament to the kitchen’s incredible skill.

Chaozhou is famous for its “Yu Sheng” (鱼生), or raw freshwater fish salad. If you’re hesitant to try it due to health concerns, Lianhua offers the perfect solution: its incredible vegetarian “sashimi” (素鱼生). Made from konjac jelly, the “fish slices” are visually indistinguishable from the real thing—translucent, paper-thin, and delicate. Mix them with the provided array of fresh garnishes and a special dipping sauce for a refreshing, complex, and utterly convincing experience.

Another masterpiece of culinary mimicry is the “Glass” Codfish (玻璃鳕鱼). The “codfish” fillets are actually made from soy protein, pan-fried to a perfect golden-brown crisp on the outside. The texture is fantastic, and when paired with a tangy, sweet-and-sour sauce, it becomes an incredibly appetizing dish that goes perfectly with rice.

To top it all off, the restaurant often provides complimentary fried Kway Teow and small side dishes, showcasing their generous hospitality. It’s a creative, delicious, and deeply satisfying meal that will change the way you think about vegetarian food.

Songhe Bamboo Shoot Restaurant (松河竹笋店)

While the Jiangnan region of China celebrates bamboo shoots in winter and spring, in Chaoshan, the best time to enjoy this delicacy is in the heat of summer. Jiangdong Town, situated along the Han River, is the main production area. Though it’s a bit of a drive from the city center, its reputation for incredible bamboo shoot feasts draws crowds of food lovers who come specifically to taste this fresh, seasonal “treasure of the forest.” Among the many specialty restaurants here, Songhe is one of the most popular.

A Feast of Bamboo

The chefs in Jiangdong have mastered countless ways to prepare bamboo shoots, but a few simple preparations truly allow the ingredient’s natural sweetness and crispness to shine.

The Ultimate Refresher: Chilled Bamboo Shoots (冰笋)

This dish is simplicity at its finest, but it demands the highest quality shoots. Freshly harvested bamboo is sliced into strips, quickly blanched, and then chilled. You eat it by dipping the crisp, cool strips into a mixture of soy sauce and wasabi. The texture is incredibly crunchy and refreshing, making it an unbeatable appetizer on a hot day.

Other must-try dishes transform the bamboo into different forms. The stir-fried shredded bamboo shoots (炒笋丝) is a home-style classic where finely julienned shoots are simply stir-fried to bring out their juicy, crisp texture. The bamboo shoot skin with sliced pork (笋衣炒肉) is a lesson in zero-waste cooking; the tender outermost layer of the shoot, often discarded, is stir-fried with pork to create a dish that is both delicate and savory.

For a heartier option, the bamboo shoot fried rice (笋炒饭) infuses each grain of rice with the fresh, sweet aroma of diced bamboo shoots. And you can’t leave without trying the classic Chaoshan snack, “Sun Guo” (笋粿). These steamed dumplings are filled with a savory mixture of diced bamboo, minced pork, mushrooms, and dried shrimp, bursting with flavor in every bite.

Chaozhen Laowei Beef Offal (潮镇老尾牛杂) — A Legendary Bowl by the Lake

Right by the scenic West Lake, you’ll find a shop that is nothing short of a Chaozhou institution: Chaozhen Laowei Beef Offal. This spot is so legendary that it’s practically a landmark, a place that is universally known among locals. The menu is a testament to the power of specialization, offering just two items: Beef Offal Kway Teow and Beef Ball Kway Teow. Yet, this simple focus has cultivated a massive following, and you should expect to see a queue forming from its door almost every single day of the year.

The Noodle and the Wait

Before you even order, take a moment to appreciate the noodle itself. Chaoshan Kway Teow is a different beast from the Cantonese He Fen you might be used to. It’s thicker, with a more substantial, satisfying chew, and its narrower shape is perfect for clinging to the rich broth. At Chaozhen, every bowl is cooked to order—a promise of absolute freshness that means you’ll have a short, anticipatory wait after ordering. It’s a wait that is always rewarded.

The Main Event: A Bowl Overflowing with Treasures

When your bowl of Beef Offal Kway Teow arrives, you’ll understand the hype. It’s a spectacular sight, generously laden with a treasure trove of impeccably fresh offal. You’ll find tender slices of beef, crunchy omasum (牛百叶), chewy tripe (牛肚), and rich morsels of beef heart and liver. As if that weren’t enough, the bowl is also fortified with their signature handmade beef balls and tendon balls. It’s a carnivore’s dream, an abundant and deeply satisfying meal in a bowl.

What truly ties everything together is the broth. It’s incredibly rich and fragrant, its soul coming from a generous sprinkle of finely ground galangal powder (南姜末), a spice that imparts a unique, peppery, and intensely aromatic flavor that is quintessentially Chaoshan. Note that you won’t find the typical Shacha sauce here; instead, you’ll be given a potent house-made chili sauce. A small dip is all you need to elevate the flavors to another level. For a slightly simpler but equally delicious experience, the Beef Ball Kway Teow—with a generous half-and-half mix of beef and tendon balls—is also an excellent choice.

Youji Rice Noodle Rolls (友记肠粉) — The Soul of Chaozhou is Peanut Sauce

In Chaozhou, breakfast is synonymous with Cheong Fun (肠粉), or steamed rice noodle rolls. But this isn’t just one dish; it’s a canvas for fierce regional pride, defined entirely by its sauce. This is where the great “Sauce Wars” of Chaoshan play out: Shantou champions a savory soy sauce, Jieyang favors a rich meat brine, but here in Chaozhou, the undisputed king—the very soul of the dish—is a thick, fragrant, and utterly decadent peanut sauce.

You’ll find Cheong Fun shops on almost every corner, so you don’t need to hunt for a specific one. However, for a truly authentic and delicious local experience, make your way to Youji on Xirong Road. It’s a tiny shop with a humble facade that you could easily walk past, but the flavor it delivers is enormous.

One Roll to Rule Them All

Youji keeps things beautifully simple: they make only one type of Cheong Fun, and they have perfected it. The filling is a delightful mix of fresh egg, tender cabbage, and earthy enoki mushrooms, all steamed together with the rice slurry inside a traditional drawer-style steamer. The rice noodle sheet itself has a wonderful character—not paper-thin, but with a slight thickness that gives them a pleasant chew and a rich, pure rice aroma.

But the true magic happens at the final step. Once the roll is plated, it is lavishly smothered in a thick, creamy peanut sauce. The aroma is instantly intoxicating. For the people of Chaozhou, this is the defining element. The moment you take a bite, the powerful, nutty fragrance of the peanut sauce envelops your senses, creating a flavor experience that is simply irresistible. For an extra layer of flavor, be sure to add a dash of their excellent homemade chili sauce. It provides the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the peanut sauce, taking an already perfect dish to a whole new level.

Shibaqu Laowei Fish Dumplings (十八曲老尾鱼饺店) — The Art of Fish Transformation

The culinary artisans of Chaoshan possess a unique genius for transforming fresh fish into a dazzling array of new forms. They create delicate fish dumplings (鱼饺), savory fish rolls (鱼册), and springy fish noodles (鱼面)—all of which capture the pure essence of the sea while offering wonderfully novel textures. To witness this craft firsthand, you must visit Shibaqu Laowei Fish Dumplings on Huancheng West Road, an old-school shop with zero frills and no service to speak of, but the taste is so authentic that the tiny space is packed to the gills at every mealtime.

Meet the Lineup: A Symphony of Fish

The menu is a celebration of all things fish. You can order items individually or, as most do, get a combo plate to sample the variety. The combinations are the best way to explore the different textures and flavors.

The Classic Trio: Dumplings, Balls, and Rolls

Your first bowl should be the classic three-item combo. Here, you’ll discover that the “wrapper” for both the fish dumplings and fish rolls isn’t made of flour, but of painstakingly pounded grass carp meat, giving it a uniquely savory and springy quality. Both are filled with more fish paste, but the rolls are wrapped with celery and pepper for extra fragrance. The handmade fish balls complete the trio with their firm, bouncy texture and clean, fresh flavor.

The Crispy and Chewy Duo: Fried Dumplings and Fish Noodles

For a different textural experience, order the second combo. The fried dumplings (炸饺) are reminiscent of fried wontons, arriving with an incredibly crispy skin. Let them soften just slightly in the hot soup to achieve a wonderful textural contrast. The fish noodles (鱼面) are another marvel. Pure fish paste is extruded into noodle-like strands, creating a firm, chewy, and intensely flavorful “pasta” that is packed with the essence of fish. Even the simple seaweed in the clear, savory broth is delicious, rounding out a perfect bowl.

Ximen Eel Kway Teow (西门鳝鱼粿条) — A Masterclass in Wok Hei

Right next door to the fish dumpling shop, you form a perfect culinary one-two punch with another legendary spot: Ximen Eel Kway Teow. This is a classic, well-loved old shop, its reputation built on two spectacular dishes: stir-fried eel with kway teow and stir-fried eel with rice. The storefront is humble, with a faded sign that speaks to its long history, but don’t be fooled. The constant stream of satisfied customers, and the enthusiastic praise from local drivers, tells you everything you need to know.

The Secret is Freshness (and Fire)

The key to their incredible flavor is an unwavering commitment to freshness. Every eel is killed and prepared to order, ensuring the meat is at its absolute peak. You’ll witness the chef masterfully handle a searing hot wok, tossing the ingredients with the kind of intense heat that imparts the coveted “wok hei”—the smoky, fragrant “breath of the wok” that is the hallmark of great stir-fry.

Your must-order dish is the signature Stir-fried Eel with Kway Teow (鳝鱼炒粿条). Deboned segments of fresh eel are flash-fried until they glisten, their edges perfectly seared. They are then tossed with kway teow, crisp water spinach, and fresh cilantro—a classic and brilliant combination. When you take your first bite, you’ll find the eel meat is simultaneously crisp and tender, with a rich, savory flavor and absolutely no fishiness. Dipping it in their special house-made sauce creates an unforgettable taste that will have you coming back for more.

The Stir-fried Eel with Rice (鳝鱼炒饭) is equally phenomenal. The rice, having absorbed all the savory essence of the eel and kissed by the high heat of the wok, becomes incredibly fragrant, with each grain coated in flavor. While they do offer a fish dumpling soup, it’s wise to save your appetite. The eel dishes are the true masterpieces here, and they are not to be missed.

Yongji Snack Shop (永记小食店) — The Snack Paradise of Xi Ma Road

To find the highest concentration of traditional Chaozhou snacks, you must make your way to the end of Xi Ma Road (西马路尾). This relatively short street is a paradise for food lovers, packed with one small eatery after another. You could easily spend days here just eating your way from one end to the other. Tucked away in this bustling lane is Yongji Snack Shop. Formerly known simply as the “No-Name Snack Shop,” its facade is so modest that you could easily walk right past it without a second glance.

Inside, you’ll find a delightful array of freshly made snacks. The shop specializes in fried treats like salted egg yolk rolls and spring rolls, as well as a wide variety of “Guo” (粿)—savory and sweet rice-flour pastries. Everything is made fresh on-site, ready to be eaten on the spot.

The Legendary Salted Egg Yolk Roll

While everything is tempting, the one item you absolutely cannot leave without trying is their famous Salted Egg Yolk Roll (咸蛋黄卷). This is a true indulgence. The roll is deep-fried to a perfect golden-brown crisp. When you bite through the crunchy exterior, you are met with a rich, slightly molten salted egg yolk filling, with a surprise layer of savory pork lard sandwiched in the middle. The immediate explosion of fragrant aroma from the combination of rich yolk and savory lard is an unforgettable sensory experience. It may seem a bit pricey at 6 RMB, but it is worth every single yuan.

Wu Jinping Snack Shop (吴进平小食店) — A 60-Year-Old Spring Roll Legend

Directly opposite Yongji, you’ll find another local institution: Wu Jinping Snack Shop, a time-honored brand with sixty years of history. Like its neighbor, it offers a full range of traditional fried snacks like spring rolls (春饼), fried rolls (卷煎), and various “Guo.” But there is one item here that reigns supreme and draws crowds from all over the city.

The Frenzy for Freshly Fried Spring Rolls

The most popular item by far is the Spring Roll (春饼). They are fried fresh in batches and are so beloved that locals buy them by the dozen. A fresh batch often disappears the moment it comes out of the fryer, snapped up by eager customers. Be prepared for a bit of chaotic energy when ordering; there’s no orderly queue here, just a crowd of locals and visitors alike, all vying for their share. You’ll need to be assertive to get your order in!

While Chaozhou’s spring roll may look similar to the Cantonese version, the difference is all in the filling. Instead of the usual vegetables, the filling here is a unique and savory mixture of peeled mung beans, minced pork, dried shrimp, and fragrant mushrooms. The wrapper is fried to a perfect, shattering crispness. The moment you bite into it, your mouth is filled with the incredible aroma of the savory filling—a taste so good, it will make you want to applaud.

Lao Si Wheat Cake (老四麦粿) — A Hidden, Heartwarming Treat

Just a few steps from Wu Jinping’s bustling corner, tucked away in the same alley, is another hidden gem you should absolutely seek out: Lao Si Wheat Cake. This small shop specializes in a simple, traditional snack called “Mai Guo” (麦粿). It’s made by pan-frying a batter of wheat flour, water, and a touch of sugar into a soft, fragrant pancake.

A Taste of Teamwork

The shop is a true family affair, run by a husband-and-wife team with a seamless workflow that is like watching a well-oiled machine. The wife pours the batter, and the husband expertly flips and cooks the cakes. They operate on a local’s schedule, opening at 2:30 PM each afternoon and closing up as soon as they sell out.

You have three choices: plain, or filled with either taro paste or mung bean paste. The filled versions are made like a dorayaki, with a generous layer of filling sandwiched between two warm pancakes.

Though its appearance is humble, the taste of a freshly made Mai Guo is a thing of pure comfort and delight. Be sure to eat it while it’s still hot. When you bite into the taro-filled version, you’re first greeted by the rich, comforting aroma of wheat from the soft pancake. This is immediately followed by the smooth, sweet, and fragrant taro paste, a wonderfully delicate flavor that creates a truly blissful eating experience.

Ancestral Sugar Scallion Pancake (糖葱薄饼)

Continue your stroll down Xi Ma Road and you’ll find a stall selling one of Chaoshan’s most enchanting and historic sweets: the Sugar Scallion Pancake (糖葱薄饼). This isn’t your average dessert; it’s an edible work of art that is as fascinating to understand as it is to eat.

What is a “Sugar Scallion”?

The name is a bit of a misnomer. “Tang Cong” (糖葱) does not contain any scallions. It gets its name from its unique appearance: it’s a brittle, hollow tube of pulled sugar with delicate, layered internal structures that resemble the cross-section of a white scallion. Made by repeatedly pulling and folding boiled sugar syrup, it’s a laborious process that results in a confection that is incredibly light, airy, and spectacularly crispy.

The Art of Assembly

At the stall, the sugar scallions are pre-made, but the thin, crepe-like wrappers are skillfully made fresh to order. You can choose between a standard version or a “deluxe” one with more fillings. The vendor will lay out a delicate wrapper, snap a few pieces of the crispy sugar scallion onto it, and add a generous sprinkle of crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, and a sprig of fresh cilantro. The whole thing is then folded into a neat, rectangular parcel.

The first bite is a symphony of textures and flavors. The soft wrapper gives way to the loud, satisfying shatter of the sugar scallion. The clean sweetness of the sugar is perfectly balanced by the nutty, roasted peanuts and the surprising, fresh aroma of the cilantro. It’s a must-try for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Hu Rongquan (胡荣泉) — A Time-Honored Taste on Paifang Street

While Paifang Street can feel quite commercialized compared to the rustic charm of Xi Ma Road, it still holds a few culinary treasures you shouldn’t miss. The first is the legendary Hu Rongquan. A crucial tip: the street has more than one shop bearing this name, but the one you want is the original “old shop” (老店) located at the end of the street. This is the only one that local connoisseurs truly recognize.

The Famous “Duck Mother’s Pinch”

The shop’s most famous dine-in dessert is the “Ya Mu Nian” (鸭母捻). The peculiar name, translating to “duck mother’s pinch,” is said to come from the way the oval-shaped glutinous rice balls resemble duck eggs or float like little white ducks in the sweet soup. It’s essentially a luxurious version of Tangyuan, served in a sweet broth filled with lotus seeds, barley, red dates, white fungus, sweet potato, ginkgo nuts, and a quail egg. Each bowl contains two large rice balls with different fillings—nutty black sesame and earthy red bean. While it’s a pleasant and comforting dessert, the real treasures at Hu Rongquan are its traditional pastries.

The True Stars: Pastries to Take Home

What you should really focus on here are the pastries, which make for perfect souvenirs. The Fermented Tofu Biscuit (腐乳饼) is a Chaoshan classic with a truly imaginative filling. It combines “ice pork” (lard cured with sugar and liquor), nuts, garlic, and more liquor, all brought together by the savory, funky flavor of fermented bean curd. It’s an unforgettable taste experience.

The shortbreads, or “Lao Bing” (朥饼), are also exceptional. The Green Bean Shortbread (绿豆饼) has an incredibly flaky crust that shatters at the slightest touch, revealing a soft, delicate mung bean filling that practically melts in your mouth. The Taro Shortbread (芋泥饼) is equally divine, with layers of buttery pastry wrapped around a dense, fragrant taro paste. For those who prefer less sweetness, the Old Buddha’s Hand (老香黄饼) and Tangerine Peel (陈皮饼) versions offer a more complex, herbal flavor.

Situ Clan (司徒世家) — A Historic Sweet and Savory Dumpling

Your second essential stop on Paifang Street is for a unique savory dumpling, found at a historic residence known as Situ Clan. Located near the “玉署仙班” archway, this isn’t just a shop; it’s a piece of living history. The stall is set up in the doorway of a grand old mansion that was once the residence of a Qing Dynasty military official. The large plaque above the door, reading “司徒世家” (Situ Shijia), tells of the family’s esteemed lineage.

The “Shuang Peng” Masterpiece

Here, they specialize in one thing: Zongqiu (粽球), the Chaoshan term for the glutinous rice dumplings known elsewhere as zongzi. What makes the version here so special is its “Shuang Peng” (双烹) or dual-flavor filling—a divine combination that masterfully balances sweet and savory elements within a single, hefty parcel.

When you unwrap the bamboo leaves, you’ll find a sticky rice dumpling packed with an incredible array of ingredients. The savory side features rich pork, a decadent salted egg yolk, fragrant mushrooms, and umami-rich dried shrimp. This is perfectly balanced by the sweet elements of mung bean paste and delicate lotus seeds. The result is a wonderfully complex, multi-layered flavor that is a true taste of Chaoshan tradition.

Uncle Black Olive Juice (黑人叔叔·油柑汁专营店)

Another fixture on Paifang Street is a modern “internet celebrity” (网红) drink shop with a tiny storefront and a perpetually long queue: Uncle Black. This shop specializes in Yougan Juice (油柑汁), a drink made from the local oil olive. Once a niche Chaoshan specialty, this unique beverage has recently exploded in popularity across China, and you’re now standing at its ground zero.

A Magical Taste Journey

If you’ve never tried it, you’re in for a fascinating experience. The taste of Yougan juice unfolds in stages. The very first sip hits your palate with a surprising sourness and a distinct astringency that puckers your mouth. But wait for it. After just a few seconds, a miraculous transformation occurs: a wave of deep, lingering sweetness, known as “Hui Gan” (回甘), rises from the back of your throat. It’s so pronounced that even swallowing your own saliva tastes sweet! This journey from sharp tartness to profound sweetness will transport your taste buds to a whole new and wonderful realm.

Laobing · Qicongsong Gancao Fruits (老柄·七丛松甘草水果)

On the streets and alleys of Chaozhou, you’ll constantly encounter stalls selling Gancao Fruits (甘草水果). This is a quintessential local snack where seasonal fruits are chopped up and drizzled with a special, house-made licorice syrup. For a great example, venture into Qicongsong Alley just off Paifang Street to find Laobing.

The display window is a dazzling mosaic of colors, showcasing everything from guava and wax apple to green jujube and sour plums. You can mix and match to your heart’s content. A unique local specialty you should try is the cherry tomatoes stuffed with preserved plums (番茄夹乌梅). The licorice syrup adds a subtle sweetness that enhances, rather than overpowers, the fruit’s natural flavor. Paired with a sprinkle of sour plum powder, the taste is a magical combination of sweet, sour, and savory that is utterly addictive.

Aunt Hua’s Old Cinema Juice Ice (花姨·老电影院果汁冰)

Another iconic Chaozhou drink you must try is “Guozhi Bing” (果汁冰), or fruit juice ice. This isn’t a thin, watery juice but a thick, slushy-like beverage packed with real fruit. One of the most beloved spots is Aunt Hua’s, a long-standing shop on Yi’an Road. Here, fresh seasonal fruits are blended with crushed ice and sometimes a Yakult-style yogurt drink to create the ultimate refreshment.

The shop offers dozens of combinations at incredibly reasonable prices. When you take your first sip, you’ll be hit with a thick, fragrant, and intensely fruity blast, with bits of real fruit pulp mixed in with the fine ice slush. It’s cool, satisfying, and absolutely irresistible, especially on a hot summer day. The Mango Yakult (芒果益力多) is a can’t-miss classic.

Lihua Fried Ice (丽华炒冰)

Beyond juice ice, Chaozhou has an even more unique frozen treat: “Chao Bing” (炒冰), or “fried ice.” For the most authentic version, you’ll need to venture into a small urban village to find Lihua Fried Ice. This tiny, unassuming shop has been here for over 20 years. There’s no ambiance to speak of, but its reputation for incredible flavor keeps it constantly packed with customers—a true testament to the idea that “the finest wine is found in the deepest alleys.”

A Unique Culinary Process

“Fried ice” is made to order in a fascinating process. Fresh fruit puree is poured onto a super-chilled metal disc. As the puree freezes, the vendor uses two spatulas to chop, mix, and “fry” it, turning it into a smooth, creamy, sorbet-like consistency. But it doesn’t stop there. They then mix in a surprising and delicious combination of ingredients: chunks of fried sweet potato, fresh fruit pieces, and even a whole quail egg, all stirred together into the final product.

The most popular flavor is mango, and it’s an absolute explosion of tropical flavor, rich but not cloyingly sweet. The Mango Fried Ice (芒果炒冰) is phenomenal. The coconut version is also excellent, with a clean, refreshing sweetness. The combination of the creamy, cold fruit ice with the warm, chewy fried sweet potato and other toppings creates an incredible contrast of temperatures and textures. It’s a temptation that no one can resist.

Xie Huailiang Sesame Tea (谢怀亮芝麻茶)

For many Chaozhou locals, the taste of Xie Huailiang’s sesame tea is the taste of childhood. Located near the West Lake, this shop has been a fixture for over two decades, its simple, comforting flavors remaining unchanged through the years. It’s a place steeped in collective memory.

The menu is wonderfully simple, offering just three items: Black Sesame Tea (黑芝麻茶), White Sesame Tea (白芝麻茶), and Almond Tea (杏仁茶). You can order them individually or, for the best experience, get a “yuan-yang” style half-and-half combination. The price is an incredibly reasonable 6 RMB per bowl.

The moment your bowl arrives, you’re greeted by a rich, nutty aroma. The texture of each paste is exquisitely smooth, thick, and velvety. The almond tea mixed with black sesame is robust and deeply fragrant, while the almond tea with white sesame is slightly gentler but equally aromatic. Both are warm, comforting, and delicious enough to defy resistance.

Part II: A Historical Tour of Chaozhou

While the food alone is worth the pilgrimage, Chaozhou’s historical sights are equally captivating. The city is a treasure trove of ancient architecture and folk art that will leave you spellbound. The modern city center was once the seat of the historic Chaozhou Prefecture, a place of great importance. Here, you’ll find architectural marvels that tell the story of a rich and powerful past.

Prepare to walk across the legendary Guangji Bridge, one of the four great ancient bridges of China. You’ll step into Kaiyuan Temple, the “First Monastery of Eastern Guangdong,” where relics from the Tang and Song dynasties still reside. You’ll be mesmerized by the exquisite golden wood carvings at Jilüe Huang Gong Ancestral Hall, a true masterpiece of Chaoshan craftsmanship. And venture just outside the city to discover Congxi Gong Ancestral Hall, a hidden gem in the countryside boasting the most spectacular and intricate stone carvings in the entire region. Each site is a window into a glorious past.

Guangji Bridge (广济桥) — The Bridge That Opens and Closes

When you speak of Chaozhou’s historic landmarks, the first and most important is always Guangji Bridge. It is a national treasure, holding a place alongside the Luoyang Bridge in Quanzhou, the Lugou Bridge in Beijing, and the Zhaozhou Bridge in Zhao County as one of the four great ancient bridges of China. Spanning over 500 meters across the mighty Han River, this bridge has stood on a crucial ancient transport route between Fujian and Guangdong for over 800 years, with its construction beginning in the Southern Song Dynasty in 1171.

A Marvel of Engineering: The World’s First Opening Bridge

What makes Guangji Bridge truly unique is its ingenious design: it is the world’s first-ever opening and closing bridge. It’s a brilliant hybrid structure that combines fixed beam bridges on its eastern and western ends with a dynamic floating bridge in the middle. This central section is composed of eighteen shuttle boats linked together. When large vessels need to pass through, the boats are simply disconnected, creating a wide channel. This remarkable feature is a one-of-a-kind example in Chinese bridge history, earning it a spot as a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.

The Legend of its Creation

Such a magical bridge naturally comes with a magical origin story. Legend has it that the bridge was built overnight through the divine efforts of the monk Guangji and one of the Eight Immortals, Han Xiangzi (who was also the grandnephew of the famed scholar Han Yu). Han Xiangzi built the eastern section, the monk built the western part, and the goddess He Xiangu completed the bridge by transforming lotus flowers into the shuttle boats, linking the two halves together. This is why the bridge is known by two names: Guangji Bridge and Xiangzi Bridge.

From Floating Barges to a Bustling Bridge-Market

While the legend is enchanting, historical records tell a story of gradual, brilliant innovation. The bridge began as a simple floating structure of 86 boats. Over the centuries, stone piers were gradually built out from both banks, topped with beautiful pavilions, creating the “eighteen shuttle boats, twenty-four piers” configuration it’s famous for. During its peak in the Ming Dynasty, it became a vibrant “bridge-market,” bustling with merchants, opera performers, and street artists.

The bridge you see today is a beautiful restoration that recreates its Ming Dynasty appearance. While the pavilions and shuttle boats are modern reconstructions, twenty of the massive stone piers are the original ancient structures. Take your time as you walk across; while the pavilions may look similar at a glance, each one is uniquely designed.

The Daily Spectacle: “Tearing Down the Bridge”

One of the most fascinating things to witness is the daily opening and closing of the floating section. This ancient tradition continues today. Every afternoon at 5:30 PM, to allow for river traffic, the “bridge is torn down” as the shuttle boats are disconnected and moved aside. Then, the next morning at 10:00 AM, tugboats guide the boats back into position, and workers skillfully reconnect them, reassembling the bridge for pedestrians. It’s a living piece of history in motion that you shouldn’t miss.

Guangji Gate Tower (广济门城楼) — The Grand Entrance to the Ancient City

As you stand at the western end of the Guangji Bridge, your gaze will be drawn upward to a magnificent gatehouse that commands the entrance to the old city: the Guangji Gate Tower. Also known as the Hanjiang Tower or the East Gate Tower, this structure has been the primary gateway to Chaozhou since it was first built in the Ming Dynasty in 1370. Of the seven original city gates, this was always the grandest and most imposing, serving as a vital hub for both defense and transportation.

A Cycle of Destruction and Rebirth

The tower you see today is a story of resilience. The original structure was ravaged by a fire in the Qing Dynasty and subsequently rebuilt. However, even that version is not what stands now. The current magnificent tower is a meticulous restoration completed in the early 21st century, designed to recapture its historic splendor. Its three-story pavilion sits atop a massive, thick stone base, with a grand double-eaved, hip-and-gable roof that makes it look like a majestic palace guarding the city.

A Tour of Calligraphy

As a landmark of a city with deep cultural roots, the tower is adorned with exquisite plaques and couplets penned by famous figures. Take a moment to look up and appreciate them tier by tier:

• First Tier: The plaque reads “岭东首邑” (Ling Dong Shou Yi – The Premier City of Eastern Guangdong), written by calligrapher Liu Bingsen.
• Second Tier: The plaque “东为万春” (Dong Wei Wan Chun – The East Brings Eternal Spring) is by the master scholar Jao Tsung-I.
• Third Tier: The top plaque, “广济楼” (Guangji Lou – Guangji Tower), is by the female calligrapher Xiao Xian.

The Living City Wall

The tower is not an isolated structure. To its north and south, you can still find several kilometers of the original ancient city wall, along with three other preserved gate towers: Zhumu Gate, Shangshui Gate, and Xiashui Gate. Walking along this wall and passing through these gates is how you truly enter the historic fabric of old Chaozhou.

The City by Night: A Symphony of Lights

After sunset, the entire area undergoes a magical transformation. The Guangji Gate Tower, the Guangji Bridge, and the adjacent Paifang Street are all illuminated in a dazzling display of lights. The nightly light show on the bridge is a major event, drawing enormous crowds that often fill the entire plaza in front of the gate tower. While it can be crowded, this vibrant, festive spectacle is a beautiful sight and well worth experiencing.

Paifang Street (牌坊街) — A Boulevard of Resurrected Glory

When you walk through the ancient heart of Chaozhou, all roads inevitably lead to Paifang Street. This is the city’s most famous thoroughfare, a nearly two-kilometer-long pedestrian street distinguished by the twenty-plus magnificent stone archways (牌坊, paifang) that line its path. It is a spectacular sight, but to truly appreciate it, you must first understand its complex and poignant history.

A Street of Ghosts: The Story of Demolition and Rebirth

The archways you see today are faithful reconstructions from the early 2000s. The original street was once home to 39 historic archways from the Ming and Qing dynasties, each one a stone monument honoring a distinguished scholar, a virtuous official, or a local hero. It was a testament to a time when Chaozhou produced a remarkable number of talented individuals.

Tragically, this entire street of stone monuments was lost in the 20th century. In 1950, after one of the archways accidentally collapsed and caused a fatality, a decision was made to dismantle them all, as they were also deemed relics of a feudal past. For over half a century, the street was bare. Fortunately, detailed photographs and records of the inscriptions were preserved, allowing for the meticulous reconstruction you see today. While they may lack the patina of age, if you take the time to read their stories, you will find a profound connection to the city’s soul.

Reading the Archways: Stories in Stone

Walking down the street is like reading a history book. Each archway tells a unique story of merit, honor, and civic pride. Here are a few key ones to look for:

“Ten Ministers’ Legacy · Titan of Culture” (十相留声·泰山北斗)

This archway is a tribute to Chaozhou’s incredible historical significance. One side honors ten prime ministers from the Tang and Song dynasties who either served or were exiled here, including the famed “Three Heroes of the Late Song.” The other side, “Taishan Beidou” (an idiom for a leading authority), is dedicated to the great Tang Dynasty scholar Han Yu, whose brief tenure as prefect transformed the region.

“Second Imperial Scholar · Autumn Terrace” (榜眼·秋台)

This archway, with its unique yellow-glazed tiles and rooftop dragons, honors Wang Dabao, the only scholar from the entire Lingnan region to achieve the rank of “Bangyan” (second place in the nation’s highest imperial examination) during the Song Dynasty. He was a passionate advocate for resisting northern invaders.

“Pillar of History” (史柱) & “Imperial Emissary” (圣朝使相)

These two mark the beginning and the end. The “Pillar of History” archway, first built in 1517, is a reconstruction of the oldest paifang that once stood on the street. At the other end of the timeline is the “Imperial Emissary” archway, a replica of the last one built, dating to 1785, honoring Zheng Dajin, the highest-ranking official to ever come from the Chaoshan region during the Qing Dynasty.

The Sole Survivor: The “Zhongjie” Archway (忠节坊)

While the archways on the main street are replicas, one original Ming Dynasty archway did survive the demolition. To find it, you’ll need to venture off the main path to Jinshan Alley near the north gate. Here stands the weathered but proud “Zhongjie Fang” (Archway of Loyalty and Integrity). It was erected in 1537 to honor Ma Fa, a local hero who, along with his entire family, died defending Chaozhou from Mongol invaders at the end of the Song Dynasty. You can still see the concrete patches from past repairs, a testament to its long and tumultuous history. It is a quiet but powerful link to the city’s authentic past.

Jiadi Lane (甲第巷) — A Living Museum of Aristocratic Life

If the reconstructed Paifang Street is Chaozhou’s grand public face, then Jiadi Lane, running parallel to it, is its intimate, authentic soul. While Paifang Street tells the story of public honor, this narrow, 300-meter-long alleyway whispers the private histories of the families who lived here. The name itself, “Jiadi,” translates to “First-Rank Residences,” a testament to the lofty aspirations of the powerful clans of scholar-officials and wealthy merchants who built their magnificent homes here during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Unlike a sterile museum, this is a living lane. Many of the homes are still inhabited, often by the descendants of the original owners, which is a key reason for their remarkable state of preservation. As you walk, you’re not just observing architecture; you’re stepping through a community’s enduring legacy.

Reading the Doorways: A Guide to Status and Lineage

The story of the lane is told through the magnificent plaques hanging above each doorway. These are not just decorations; they are declarations of status and identity.

You will see many official titles like “Dafu Di” (大夫第) and “Zizheng Di” (资政第), which were high-ranking honorary titles often bestowed upon or purchased by wealthy merchants to elevate their family’s social standing. Others, like “Waihan Di” (外翰第), a poetic term for an official of the Ministry of Justice, signified a position earned through success in the grueling imperial examinations.

Look also for plaques indicating family origins, such as “Gaoyang Jiujia” (高阳旧家) for the Xu clan or “Zongsheng Shijia” (宗圣世家) for the Zeng clan, proudly tracing their lineage back to ancient heartlands and famous ancestors.

Step Inside: The Zizheng Di Exhibition Hall (No. 16)

While most of these historic homes remain private residences, you are invited to step inside one of the grandest: the Zizheng Di at number 16, which now serves as the Chaozhou Folk Culture Exhibition Hall. Originally the ancestral hall of the powerful Cai family, it was built in 1892 by the wealthy banker Cai Jianliu.

Inside, the main hall is arranged in a traditional layout, but your eyes will immediately be drawn upward. The entire roof structure is a breathtaking showcase of golden wood carving (金漆木雕), a pinnacle of Chaoshan artistry. The beams, brackets, and supports are covered in elaborate, multi-layered carvings depicting historical scenes, mythical creatures, and auspicious symbols. The sheer opulence is a clear indicator of the family’s immense wealth and status. The beautifully preserved lacquer paintings on the beams are also a rare and precious sight.

A View from the Top

Don’t miss the chance to climb to the rooftop terrace of the modern building at the back of the residence. It offers a rare and beautiful perspective, allowing you to look down upon the intricate, undulating gray-tiled roofs of the entire historic neighborhood. It’s the perfect way to appreciate the unique architectural landscape of old Chaozhou.

Kaiyuan Temple (开元寺) — The First Monastery of Eastern Guangdong

At the bustling intersection of Paifang Street and Kaiyuan Road, you cannot miss the magnificent red walls and grand, sweeping roofs of Kaiyuan Temple. This is not just any temple; it is the most important Buddhist site in the region, affectionately known as the “First Monastery of Eastern Guangdong” (粤东第一古刹). Its distinguished name, “Kaiyuan,” signifies its imperial origins. In the 26th year of the Kaiyuan era (738 AD), the Tang Emperor Xuanzong decreed that a grand temple bearing his era’s name be constructed in every prefecture of the empire, and this is Chaozhou’s magnificent result.

Navigating the Temple Grounds

While the main gate, the Ming Dynasty-era Hall of Vajra Guardians, is no longer used, you will enter through a side gate on the east. This path first leads you through the modern Hall of Great Compassion before opening up to the historic temple complex to the west. Here, the layout still largely preserves its original Tang Dynasty plan, with the main halls arranged on a central north-south axis.

The Architectural Gem: The Hall of Heavenly Kings (天王殿)

The first ancient structure you will encounter is also the most precious: the Hall of Heavenly Kings. This magnificent hall is the only surviving Song Dynasty building in the temple complex and stands as one of the oldest and largest wooden structures of its kind in all of Guangdong. Its architectural style is a rare and fascinating blend of northern Chinese stacked-bucket arches and southern post-and-lintel construction, a unique sight for students of architecture. The hall underwent a major restoration in the 1980s, a project funded by the Chaozhou-born Hong Kong tycoon, Li Ka-shing.

Relics in Stone: The Tang Dynasty Sutra Pillars

Standing guard in front of the Hall of Heavenly Kings are two stone sutra pillars (石经幢) that are even older than the hall itself. These are original relics from the temple’s founding during the Tang Dynasty, dating back over 1,200 years. Carved with images of powerful warriors, lotus flowers, and dragons, these weathered pillars are a tangible link to the temple’s earliest days.

The Main Hall and its Courtyard

Beyond the Hall of Heavenly Kings lies a tranquil courtyard shaded by two enormous Bodhi trees, planted here in the 1950s. The courtyard leads to the Main Hall (大雄宝殿). While this structure was built in the Ming Dynasty, it beautifully retains the dignified and simple aesthetic of Tang Dynasty architecture. Though you cannot enter the hall, its exterior is surrounded by another set of priceless relics: 78 sections of a stone balustrade believed to be original Tang Dynasty carvings, each depicting a different story from the life of the Buddha.

At the rear of the complex is the Sutra Pavilion (藏经阁), which houses one of the temple’s greatest treasures: a complete set of the Imperial Tripitaka (the Buddhist canon), gifted by the Qianlong Emperor in 1765. This priceless collection is a national first-class cultural relic and is carefully preserved within the hall.

Jilüe Huang Gong Ancestral Hall (己略黄公祠) — A Palace of Woodcarving

Prepare yourself for what is arguably the most breathtaking display of craftsmanship in all of Chaozhou. Hidden in an alley off Yi’an Road, the Jilüe Huang Gong Ancestral Hall is celebrated as the absolute pinnacle of traditional Chaoshan architectural arts. Though modest in size, this ancestral hall, built in 1887 for the Huang family, is a treasure chest that perfectly integrates the four great arts of the region—stone carving, wood carving, lacquer painting, and porcelain inlay—at their most sublime level.

The Enigma of “Lord Huang”

Interestingly, for a nationally protected cultural relic that is less than 150 years old, the identity of its patron, “Huang Gong” (Lord Huang), remains a mystery. There are theories but no definitive proof. What is certain is that this unknown benefactor commissioned a masterpiece, creating an artistic legacy that has far outlived his own recorded name, a treasure he likely never imagined would be celebrated by the entire nation.

The Stone-Carved Overture

Your journey into this artistic sanctuary begins at the gatehouse, where intricate stone carvings serve as a prelude to the wonders within. The walls are adorned with reliefs depicting famous historical tales like “The Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage” and “Borrowing Arrows with Thatched Boats,” each scene brought to life with astonishing detail and three-dimensionality.

The Golden Symphony: An Explosion of Woodcarving

As impressive as the exterior is, it is merely an appetizer. Step through the doors and into the prayer pavilion (拜亭), and you will be completely overwhelmed by the most concentrated and magnificent display of golden wood carving (金漆木雕) in the region. This is the heart of the hall’s fame, a breathtaking symphony of skill, symbolism, and storytelling carved in wood and gilded in gold.

The entire roof structure is a forest of art. Sixteen magnificent golden phoenixes spread their wings, serving not only as decoration but as functional structural brackets. Look closely at the beams and you’ll find a menagerie of mythical creatures, each with a profound meaning.

Creatures with a Message

You’ll find a pair of lions whose manes are intricately carved with tiny human figures: one side depicts Daoist figures, symbolizing that a teacher’s purpose is to impart wisdom (“师以载道”). The other shows scholars, symbolizing that a great teacher produces outstanding students (“名师高徒”). Elsewhere, you’ll spot a mythical beast called a “Tan” (犭贪), a creature that embodies greed, placed here as a moral reminder against avarice. There is even a crab holding a plum blossom, a visual pun wishing for a “beautiful and abundant” life.

A Fortunate Survival

The reason these priceless carvings still exist is a story of quiet courage. During the Cultural Revolution, workers at a textile company that was using the hall as a warehouse ingeniously protected the art by covering every inch of it with a thick layer of river mud and lime plaster, hiding it from view. While this saved it from destruction, the hall has unfortunately suffered from theft in recent decades, a sad testament to the pricelessness of its art.

Haiyang County Confucian Temple (海阳县儒学宫) — The Ancient Heart of Learning

Not far from the intricate artistry of the Huang Gong Ancestral Hall, you’ll find another site of immense historical importance: the Haiyang County Confucian Temple. “Haiyang” was the ancient name for the county that encompassed Chaozhou city, and this complex served as its official Confucian temple—a place for venerating the great sage and for educating the region’s scholars. First built in the Southern Song Dynasty, it was destroyed by Mongol invaders and rebuilt in 1369 during the Ming Dynasty. Today, it stands as a precious link to the city’s scholarly past.

The Ceremonial Approach

Your journey into this center of learning follows a traditional, ceremonial path. You’ll first pass under the “Changli Jiu Zhi” (昌黎旧治) archway, a tribute to the great scholar Han Yu. Beyond it lies the formal entrance, the triple-arched Lingxing Gate (棂星门). This gate leads to a courtyard with a statue of Confucius, followed by the semi-circular Crescent Pond (泮池), which scholars would ceremonially cross via the small Pan Bridge (泮桥) after passing their examinations.

Past the pond, you will arrive at the Gate of Great Accomplishment (大成门). Hung above is a famous quote from Confucius that gets to the heart of his philosophy: “Learning without thought is labor lost; thought without learning is perilous.”

The Hall of Great Accomplishment (大成殿)

The centerpiece of the entire complex is the magnificent Hall of Great Accomplishment. This grand hall, with its majestic double-eaved, hip-and-gable roof, is the main structure for paying respects to Confucius. Miraculously, it has retained its original Ming Dynasty architectural style, making it a priceless example of period architecture.

Inside, your attention is drawn to four large, impressive plaques hanging high above. These were bestowed by four different emperors of the Qing Dynasty, each praising Confucius with the highest of honors:

• “Teacher of Ten Thousand Generations” (万世师表) – Emperor Kangxi
• “Unprecedented Among Mortals” (生民未有) – Emperor Yongzheng
• “Equal to Heaven and Earth” (与天地参) – Emperor Qianlong
• “This Culture Resides Here” (斯文在兹) – Emperor Guangxu

Interestingly, these are not the emperors’ original brushstrokes. After Emperor Kangxi gifted his calligraphy to the main temple in Qufu, he decreed that official copies be made and hung in every Confucian temple across the empire, a tradition his successors continued. These plaques are thus a symbol of unified imperial reverence for the great sage.

Xu Fuma Mansion (许驸马府) — A Glimpse into Song Dynasty Nobility

As a former prefectural capital, Chaozhou is home to many grand residences built by officials and aristocrats. Among them, the most representative and historically significant is the Xu Fuma Mansion. This is not just a beautiful old house; it’s a nationally protected cultural relic and a precious, rare example of residential architecture from the Song Dynasty.

Home of an Imperial Son-in-Law

The mansion was first built during the Song Dynasty (between 1064-1067) for Xu Jue (许珏), the “Fuma” (驸马), or imperial son-in-law, who was married to Princess De’an, the eldest daughter of Emperor Yingzong. Xu Jue hailed from a long line of distinguished scholar-officials, which explains how he was chosen for such a high honor. While the mansion has undergone numerous repairs over the centuries, its foundational layout and architectural form are remarkably still those of the original Song Dynasty structure, offering a rare window into the life of the nobility nearly a thousand years ago.

The “Four Horses Pulling a Carriage” Layout

The mansion is a perfect example of a grand Chaoshan architectural style known as “Sì Mǎ Tuō Chē” (驷马拖车), or “Four Horses Pulling a Carriage.” This complex layout features a main three-entry structure flanked by two smaller side houses and a rear building, resembling a carriage drawn by horses. The entire compound contains an astonishing 55 rooms and 11 courtyards, all intricately connected. It’s a design that speaks to both immense wealth and a large, multi-generational family structure.

Three Ingenious Architectural Details

As you explore the interior, which now serves as a museum for Chaoshan architectural styles, pay close attention to three unique and clever construction features that reveal the wisdom of ancient builders.

1. The Breathable Bamboo Walls: Many of the interior walls are made not of brick, but of a lightweight material called “Zhú Biān Huī Bì” (竹编灰壁). A lattice of woven bamboo is plastered with a mixture of mud and shell ash. This thin but durable wall was perfectly adapted to the humid southern climate, providing excellent ventilation, soundproofing, and even earthquake resistance.

2. The Protective Stone Base: Look at the bottom of the walls and you’ll see stone slabs known as “Shí Dì Fú” (石地栿). These served a dual purpose: they created a perfectly level foundation for the walls and acted as a damp-proof course, protecting the structure from moisture rising from the ground.

3. The Meandering Path of Wealth: The mansion’s drainage system in the rear courtyard was designed with Feng Shui in mind. Instead of flowing straight out, the drains were built in an “S” shape, forcing water to meander past the main hall before exiting. Since water symbolizes wealth, this design was believed to prevent the family’s fortune from flowing away too quickly.

Han Wen Gong Shrine (韩文公祠) — The Soul of a City’s Renaissance

To understand Chaozhou, you must first understand the story of Han Yu. This shrine, dedicated to the man posthumously known as Han Wen Gong, is arguably the most important cultural landmark in the city. It commemorates a figure so transformative that his brief, eight-month tenure here forever altered the region’s destiny, elevating it from a remote backwater into a celebrated center of culture and learning—a place known as the “Seaside Zou and Lu” (a reference to the hometowns of Mencius and Confucius).

Han Yu, the head of the Eight Great Prose Masters of the Tang and Song Dynasties, was a high-ranking official in the imperial court. However, in 819 AD, his fierce opposition to the Emperor’s veneration of a Buddhist relic led to his demotion and exile to what was then the wild and distant prefecture of Chaozhou. But in this punishment, Chaozhou found its greatest blessing. In just a few months, Han Yu tirelessly dedicated himself to civilizing the region: he championed education by founding schools, and famously, according to legend, wrote a proclamation to formally expel the crocodile population that plagued the local rivers. His impact was so profound that the people, in their reverence, renamed the very landscape in his honor: the Yuan River became the Han River (韩江), and the nearby Penholder Mountain became Han Mountain (韩山).

The Pilgrimage to the Shrine

Your visit feels less like entering a solemn temple and more like exploring a beautiful, scenic park. The shrine is perfectly situated, backed by the mountain and facing the river. To reach the main hall, you must first ascend a flight of 51 stone steps. This is no random number; each step represents a year in Han Yu’s life leading up to his fateful exile to Chaozhou at the age of 51. As you climb, you are literally walking through the years that shaped the man who would, in turn, reshape the city. At the entrance, you will also see a towering oak tree, which, according to local legend, was planted by Han Yu himself.

The Hall of Veneration

The main hall, though restored in the 1980s, maintains a classical and dignified air. Inside, a statue of Han Yu sits at the center, flanked by his loyal attendants. Look up at the rafters, and you’ll see several large plaques, including “百世师” (Bǎi Shì Shī), meaning “Teacher for a Hundred Generations,” a title that perfectly encapsulates his enduring legacy in Chaozhou.

A Gallery of Stone: The Historic Steles

The hall and its surrounding corridors are lined with 36 historic stone steles, inscribed with calligraphy from various dynasties. The most precious of these is the “Stele of the Chaozhou Han Wen Gong Temple,” bearing an essay written by another of China’s literary giants, Su Shi of the Song Dynasty. It is a powerful link connecting two of the greatest masters of Chinese prose in one historic space.

The Art of Humility: The Unique Porcelain Mosaics

As you explore the architecture, pay close attention to the roof ridges. They are decorated with a Chaoshan art form called “Qianci” (嵌瓷), or porcelain inlay. But unlike the vibrant, multi-colored mosaics you’ll see on other temples, the Qianci here is strikingly different. It consists of simple, elegant white porcelain flowers set against a dark grey background. This is believed to have been a deliberate artistic choice, a subtle and beautiful tribute to Han Yu’s noble, uncorrupted, and scholarly character.

At the rear of the complex is the Vice Minister’s Pavilion (侍郎阁), a more modern structure built in the 1980s that now serves as a museum, offering a deeper dive into the life and works of this incredible scholar and official who left an indelible mark on the city of Chaozhou.

West Lake Park (西湖公园) — A Serene Escape Between Old and New

After immersing yourself in the rich flavors and profound history of Chaozhou, West Lake Park offers a perfect change of pace. This is where you can slow down, breathe, and simply enjoy the city’s natural beauty. The park is a picturesque blend of landscapes, with the serene West Lake to the southeast and the lush Hulu (Gourd) Mountain to the northwest. For centuries, this natural barrier served as a protective shield for the ancient city; today, it acts as a beautiful dividing line between Chaozhou’s historic old town and its modern new city.

A Lake Through the Dynasties

The history of the lake itself mirrors the evolution of Chaozhou. In the Tang Dynasty, it was still a wild, natural inlet connected to the mighty Han River. As the city grew, locals began to landscape its shores. Later, the construction of a great northern dike severed its connection to the river, transforming it into the independent lake you see today. During the Ming Dynasty, it was ingeniously repurposed to serve as the city’s official moat (护城濠), a key part of its defenses. Now, it stands as a peaceful public park, its waters reflecting centuries of change.

The Poetic Gateway

Near the Rainbow Bridge, you’ll find a stone archway that serves as the park’s poetic entrance. Its inscribed couplet is a wonderful piece of literary art. The top line reads: “Its fame as a ‘West Lake’ joins Hangzhou’s and Yingzhou’s to make three; its waters and woods are pure and fine, a pity the great scholar Su Shi never came here.” This cleverly places Chaozhou’s lake in the company of the two other famous West Lakes associated with the great poet Su Shi. The bottom line declares: “Its mountain divides the city from the countryside; its pavilions are golden and green, one must ask the ‘Little General Li’ to paint it,” a tribute to a famous Tang Dynasty landscape painter.

A Revolutionary Headquarters: The Hanbi Tower

Nestled within the park’s greenery is the Hanbi Tower (涵碧楼), a handsome, two-story Western-style building constructed in 1922. This elegant villa holds a significant place in modern Chinese history. In September 1927, following the Nanchang Uprising, the revolutionary army led by Zhou Enlai and other key figures entered Chaozhou and established their headquarters right here in this building. Their occupation lasted for seven days, a pivotal event in the city’s history known as the “Seven-Day Red of Chaozhou.” Today, you can see statues commemorating these leaders standing before the tower, which now serves as a memorial.

A Mountain of Calligraphy

For those with more time and energy, Hulu Mountain, which rises from within the park, is a treasure trove of history in its own right. Its rock faces are adorned with over 130 cliffside carvings (摩崖石刻), with some dating all the way back to the Song Dynasty. This incredible collection of outdoor calligraphy is a provincially protected cultural relic and offers a different kind of historical exploration for avid hikers.

Congxi Gong Ancestral Hall (从熙公祠) — A Hidden Trove of Stone Carving Mastery

While most of your journey will be within the ancient city walls, one of Chaozhou’s greatest artistic treasures requires a short, 20-kilometer trip into the countryside. In the quiet Jinsha Village lies the Congxi Gong Ancestral Hall. Don’t let its rural location fool you; this is not just a village temple. It is a nationally protected cultural relic and home to what many consider to be the most spectacular and technically brilliant stone carving in the entire Chaoshan region. It is an absolute must-see for any lover of art and craftsmanship.

A 14-Year Masterpiece

The hall was built by Chen Xunian, a prominent overseas Chinese leader who made his fortune in Malaysia. Construction began in 1870 and was not completed until 1884—a staggering fourteen years. Why did it take so long? The moment you lay your eyes on the impossibly intricate stone carvings, you will understand. Every surface is a testament to painstaking labor and unparalleled artistry.

The Legendary “Ox Rope” Carving

Your attention will inevitably be drawn to a large stone mural on the entrance wall depicting “The Scholar, Farmer, Artisan, and Merchant.” Look closely at the bottom panel, where a young boy herds an ox. You are looking at the subject of a famous local legend. The impossibly thin, double-stranded ox rope he holds is carved from the same single piece of stone as the rest of the mural, completely hollowed out and freestanding.

The story goes that the task was so difficult, it “drove three masters mad.” Two master carvers failed and quit before a third finally succeeded. Tragically, the original rope was later broken; the one you see today is a 1937 repair, but it still showcases the unbelievable skill required.

The Art of Hollowed-Out Stone (镂通雕)

The entire entrance hall is a gallery of this master-level technique, known as “Lòutōng Diāo” (镂通雕), or hollowed-out carving. Look at the structural joints where beams meet pillars. You will see exquisite, multi-layered stone carvings of historical scenes, flowers, and mythical creatures. Incredibly, many of these are double-sided, featuring a completely different, equally complex scene carved on the reverse. The level of detail and three-dimensionality rivals that of the finest wood carving, turning the very structure of the building into a priceless work of art.

Beyond the breathtaking stone, the hall also features superb wood carvings and vibrant “Qianci” porcelain mosaics on its roof ridges. Like many historical sites, it miraculously survived the Cultural Revolution thanks to the clever protection of local villagers. It stands today as a stunning, world-class example of traditional Chinese folk art, hidden away in the quiet countryside.

Part III: Accommodation in Chaozhou

If your trip is primarily focused on exploring the historic sites and culinary gems of the old city, your best bet is to stay directly within the Old Town. Here, you’ll find numerous charming guesthouses and boutique hotels converted from historic residences. However, choices for high-end, luxury hotels are limited in this area. If you require more premium amenities, you might consider the Chaozhou Guesthouse or the newly opened Crowne Plaza. Both are located a convenient and short taxi ride from the historic center.

A Recommended Stay: Xiyuan Hotel (希岸酒店)

For a stay that offers excellent value and convenience, consider the Xiyuan Hotel. It boasts a large, free parking lot, making it a great option if you are driving. Its location at the intersection of Chaofeng Road and Xirong Road places you within easy walking distance of West Lake and the snack paradise of Xi Ma Road. Reaching Paifang Street and Guangji Bridge will require a short taxi ride.

The rooms feature a clean, minimalist design with excellent natural light. While they are on the smaller side, they are perfectly comfortable and well-equipped for a traveler-focused stay. As a fun, quirky touch, the bathrooms are even equipped with a music system, allowing you to enjoy some tunes while you shower.

Part IV: Practical Information

Getting There & Travel Strategy

To reach Chaozhou from other parts of China, you can fly into the Jieyang Chaoshan International Airport (SWA) or take the high-speed rail to Chaoshan Station (潮汕站). If you are traveling from the Pearl River Delta (e.g., Guangzhou, Shenzhen), driving is also a convenient option.

The three core cities of the Chaoshan region—Shantou, Chaozhou, and Jieyang—are located very close to one another. If you are traveling from afar and have ample time, you can easily plan a trip that covers all three cities. However, if you live closer or prefer a more immersive experience, you might consider visiting one city at a time to truly explore its depths.

Sample 4-Day Itinerary

This itinerary is based on the author’s journey and is packed with activities. Feel free to adapt it to your own pace.

• Day 1: Arrival & West Side Snacks: Guantang Brothers Beef Hotpot → Yongji Snack Shop → Lao Si Wheat Cake → Sugar Scallion Pancake → Jiadi Lane → Paifang Street → Situ Clan → Xirong Laowei White Congee for dinner.
• Day 2: A Day of Classics: Shibaqu Laowei Fish Dumplings → Wu Jinping Snack Shop → Jilüe Huang Gong Ancestral Hall → Kaiyuan Temple → Lianhua Vegetarian Restaurant for lunch → Hu Rongquan → Aunt Hua’s Juice Ice → Haiyang County Confucian Temple → Xu Fuma Mansion → Ximen Eel Kway Teow for dinner → Uncle Black Olive Juice → Laobing Gancao Fruits.
• Day 3: Lake Views & Legends: Chaozhen Laowei Beef Offal → Chaozhou West Lake → Youzhong Sao Homestyle Cuisine for lunch → Guangji Gate Tower → Guangji Bridge → Han Wen Gong Shrine → Shaolin Beef Hotpot for dinner → Xie Huailiang Sesame Tea → Lihua Fried Ice.
• Day 4: Final Flavors & Departure: Youji Rice Noodle Rolls → Congxi Gong Ancestral Hall → Songhe Bamboo Shoot Restaurant for lunch.

Photography Gear

For those interested, the equipment used to capture the images in the original travelogue included a Nikon D610 camera with Sigma 35mm f/1.4, Sigma 12-24mm, and Nikon 85mm f/1.8 lenses, as well as a DJI Mavic 2 Pro drone.